Logitech Z-2300 Remote Control Pod Disassembly

Back in October I purchased a standalone Z-2300 subwoofer on eBay, knowing I could build a DIY remote control pod based on my working Z-2300 set. I disassembled my original remote and deciphered the pinout in a matter of hours. A board was sent off to BatchPCB the next day; two weeks later, I posted this video on YouTube:

Since then, I’ve received dozens of messages from fellow Z-2300 owners, all asking for more information.

Here’s the deal: It would be unethical of me to release the schematic and/or circuit board for public usage, and quite possibly a breach of Logitech’s intellectual property. There are no copyright, trademark, or patent markings on the Z-2300 speaker set or the control pod’s circuit board. However, a Logitech Product Team member at the Logitech message board writes:

The wiring diagram is not a public document.

This is understandable—no company publicly releases schematics for their products, and definitely does not allow for others to profit from the company’s products/services. As an engineer, I wholeheartedly respect that.

What is bothersome is Logitech’s backwards policy on replacement parts. I’ve owned my Z-2300 set since late 2005. The volume control has always exhibited terrible channel balance at low volumes. This is caused by differences in the left and right potentiometer gangs, which are pronounced at the lower and upper thresholds of rotation. Such tolerance errors are common amongst dual-ganged pots. There are two fixes: 1) Replace the potentiometer and hope for less error, or 2) Implement attenuation circuitry at the audio input (series resistors), such that the maximum counter-clockwise position of the potentiometer is avoided. I could’ve fixed this imbalance myself. Instead, it was easier to raise the volume on the pod and decrease volume at the PC. Anyway, I called Logitech’s support line one day to see about the prospect of purchasing a replacement remote control. After explaining the annoyance, I was kindly told that Logitech could send me a completely new Z-2300 set for free. Not even a shipping charge. What?! I was willing to shell out cash for a replacement part, and here they were offering to send me a $200 speaker set on their bill.

It turns out this is how Logitech’s warranty works. Rather than repair a faulty device or send out (or sell) replacement parts, they prefer to give away brand new products. I can see how the cost of labor for repairs could be less than profitable, but surely it would be cheaper to send out small replacement parts rather than entire product sets. The Z-2300’s remote control cannot be worth more than $10 in parts—probably much less considering they’re mass produced. Although fantastic for customer service, this approach to repairs is incredibly wasteful. Logitech is a fantastic company, and I was appreciative of their offer, but I declined. I did not need or want a second Z-2300 set (at the time). I was just nitpicking…

Logitech’s wasteful policy affects products besides their Z-2300. A few eBay sellers offer hand-made audio interface cables for the Z-5500, which bypass its digital remote control. These $5-$10 contraptions sell for ridiculous prices ($45-$80). Considering that there are no replacement parts to be sold, this is a clear case of demand outweighing supply. So, the question is, why on Earth doesn’t Logitech sell replacement parts? It would be profitable!

With all of that said, I would very much like to release the information I have unearthed. From the messages I’ve received, it is clear that plenty of people with out-of-warranty Z-2300’s are interested in purchasing Logitech replacement parts. Several people have lost their control pods during moves; some have dropped or otherwise broken them; some want to tap into the circuitry for unique modifications (often multiple subwoofers…); some, like me, just wanted a better performing volume control.

Since I cannot publicly release my replacement Z-2300 control pod PCB, or even the schematic or pinout, below are pictures taken during the disassembly of the pod:

The PCB silkscreen provides wiring labels for all 9 wires (plus 1 shield “wire”). Of course, you’d have to open the pod up yourself and use a continuity checker to find out which pins of the High Density 15-pin D-Sub connector these wires go to. Lastly, I can verify Logitech’s claim that standard VGA extension cables should not be used with Z-2300’s. The center row of pins for a VGA extension cable are all tied to ground. Logitech uses a single pin in this row for an audio signal. Anyone attempting to extend the interface cable should make sure to use a pin wired 1:1 (that is, pin 1 is wired to pin 1, pin to goes to pin 2, etc., and no pins are tied together).


DISCLAIMER: This design is for personal use only. Information is provided without warranty, either expressed or implied. Schematic and information below may contain intellectual property of Logitech.

Someone by the name of “HxCxK” independently uncovered and released a rendition of the Z-2300 schematic last month. Since he has let the cat out of the bag, below is what I originally found:

Miscellaneous schematic notes:

  • Resistor R108 omitted (serves to buffer supply rail into standby pin; not critical)
  • Potentiometers not measured (10k parts are common and work well in this circuit)
  • Capacitors C100, C101 are optional. Someone with more free time may wish to investigate the frequency response with and without these parts.

Principles of Operation:

  1. A stereo audio signal comes in through the green 3.5mm connector.
  2. Signal passes through the remote’s main volume potentiometer for attenuation.
  3. Signal is then fed down to the subwoofer enclosure for pre-amplification.
  4. The pre-amplifier(s) distribute the audio into two places:
    a) To the left and right satellite amplifier (and subsequently to the 2 speakers)
    b) Back up to the remote.
  5. Inside the remote, the signal is split again:
    a) To the headphone jack
    b) To the subwoofer potentiometer (where it is combined to mono at this point)
  6. Output from the subwoofer potentiometer finally gets fed back into the enclosure and last, into the subwoofer amplifier.

D-15 Connector Pinout:

Pin PCB Name Description
1 SLINE Subwoofer Line Input
2 (unused)
3 SGND Signal/Audio Ground
4 PGND Power Ground
5 STDBY Standby, Active Low
6 RL Right Line Input
7 (unused)
8 (unused)
9 (unused)
10 (unused)
11 RHP Right Headphone Output
12 LL Left Line Input
13 LHP Left Headphone Output
14 (unused)
15 VREG 15V Supply Rail

See images above for connector numbering. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:

Pin 12: Left Input
Pin 6: Right Input
Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
Pin 3: Audio Ground

Printed Circuit Board:

The board can be purchased from BatchPCB in unassembled form. This is entirely non-profit. As such, NO SUPPORT IS PROVIDED. You are on your own.

Top View of Board

Top Copper Layer

Bottom Copper Layer

Parts List:

Reference Part Description Part # Qty
J1 STX-3100-3C 806-STX-3100-3C 1
J2 STX-3100-9N 806-STX-3100-9C 1
R102, R103 2.85k resistor 271-2.87K-RC 2
R105 3.62k resistor 271-3.6K-RC 1
R104 4k resistor 271-4.02K-RC 1
R107 10.2k resistor 271-10.2K-RC 1
R100, R101 33 resistor 271-33-RC 2
R106 591 resistor 271-590-RC 1
U2 Alps RK0971221Z0 (10k, Volume) 688-RK0971221Z05 1
J3 ICD15S13E6GV00LF ICD15S13E6GV00LF 1
U3 Alps RK09712200MC (10k, 15mm) 688-RK09712200MC 1
LED1 3mm LED 1
C100, C101 0.01uF Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor C324C103K5R5TA 2
[Cable] Male to Female, HD, 15-pin D-Sub AE1380-ND 1

Edit (12/18/2010):

iNeedFixin.com” href=”http://www.ineedfixin.com”>purchased from an independent builder.

262 Replies to “Logitech Z-2300 Remote Control Pod Disassembly

  1. Hello Jseaber:

    Thanks for your knowledge page and effort !

    And would you please kindly tell me how to do with the black cable on the position on WA1? thanks !62e0ee18-2870-44eb-85bc-a3326b9bd02b.png

  2. Thank you very much for this post. I worn out three control pods now. I even bought a whole speaker set just for the control pod, because it was cheaper than buying the replacement pod as advertised on eBay. Anyways, I figured I’d try to fix one myself, this post is pretty helpfull. Although I cannot read schematics properly, I think I can solder parts on a PCB board.

    Having that said, I think the link to BatchPCB is dead. Is there another way of getting the PCB? Maybe share the source files, so we can choose a firm to order the PCB from?

    Hope you can help me out. Thanks in advance!

  3. Thanks for all the info! My control pod started having issues recently after years and years of use. Fortunately my problem was a short in the audio input line. Rather than replace the line I installed an auxiliary input port. It’s working great!
    I’m sure others have already done this but I hadn’t seen any yet.


  4. Hey,

    My plan is to add a remote power switch whilst still using the original controller.

    This would allow me to use a small 5v relay, powered by the USB port on my amp so when the amp is off so is the power on the sub.

    I thought about just using STDBY and VREG directly, but R108 will take a shed load of current. I wonder if it would be as simple as removing R108 and adding a switch between STDBY and VREG as I originally thought?

    Any idea what the best way would be? The switch that’s in there just now has 6 pins so that’s no use for my single throw single pole relay. Any thoughts appreciated!

    Thanks again for your reverse engineering.

    1. Oh and plan B is just to use the relay to switch the mains input to the unit but would prefer a low voltage alternitive 🙂

    2. Hi Nathan – Interesting idea. Sorry, it’s been years since I tinkered with this circuit. Briefly revisting the schematic, I imagine you could drive a low current relay coil from a USB port, with the contact (switch) replacing `POT_SW` in the Z-2300 pod. Or even better, wire the contact inline with `POT_SW`. You’ll have to get creative lifting the potentiometer switch pin(s). Totally possible.

      1. What I ended up doing was plan B – using a 5V relay across the main switch in the rear of the unit directly. This has the advantage of completely cutting power so no quiescent current at all. Now when my AV reciever is off the sub is completely off. Result! It’s handy having multiple USB ports in the reciever so not compromising anything else.

  5. The problem I have is the sub woofer stopped working, I believe I found the problem in the fact that the potentiometer that controls the base was reading as an open circuit so I have attempted to replace it.. My first attempt at soldering and electronics so learning fast… but damaged the copper connectors taking out the old one. I have attempted to reconnect it back up as per where it connects and seems to align with schematic. However I have no idea where the second gang of potentiometer pins connect to and I still have no base (sub woofer).

    Please help


  6. I picked up the sub only at a thrift store hoping that I could hook it up to my 5.1 stereo receiver. Is there a way to get an LFE (single RCA) input into this system without having to procure a remote?


    1. By that, I mean, can I cut two of the four leads from the RCA input from the circuit board and solder that (An LFE input) into the subwoofer inputs to the sub amp and get it to work? Which wires to which pins (on the primary PCB pin out).

  7. hola jseaber , mira tengo una sola duda porque hay 2 capas de cobre una superior y otra inferior y una cada una tiene algunas pistas como diferente algo asi

    1. hello jseaber, look I have one doubt because there are 2 layers of copper one upper and one lower and one each has some clues as different something like that

  8. For whom it may concern,
    Please note that the resistors in the bass control section are all 1% resistors and their values are absolutely critical, in particular R106 which sets the level of bass signal fed back to the main unit. It MUST be 590 ohm, substituting for a higher or lower value E12 resistor will mess with the balance between high and low output.
    I suspect logitech did this to make it even harder to go out and make your own control pod.
    SO, to make an accurate controlpod which sounds exactly like the original one, use 1% resistors as follows:
    R102/R103 = 2K87 1% metalfilm
    R104 = 4K02 1% metalfilm
    R105 = 3K65 1% metalfilm
    R106 = 590 ohm 1% metalfilm

    These are all E96 series precision resistors which might be a pain to procure. They are however the exact same values logitech used.
    The rest of it isn’t critical, the series led resistor is for a blue led, you might want to use a higher value for red/green ones.

    In my z-2300’s, I have 4 of them, i modified the bassunit so the 2 pots are next to the 15 pin connector. I drilled 2 holes for the pots, wired them directly to the corresponding pins on the 15 pin conn. and converted the rca outputs to inputs so you can plug in a simple rca cable. Be sure to apply generous amounts of glue/gunk to avoid hissing through its holes. There’s a lot of pressure inside the enclosure when really playing loud.
    The speaker outputs in my units are now Speakon terminals mounted in the mdf enclosure next to the amp baseplate.
    The modification is not that hard, although the pots are a pain to fit between the pcb and the rca terminal. Also you will need a steady hand to solder the wires directly to the 15 pins on the main pcb.
    The big advantage of this mod is that you will never have to fiddle with a control pod again, my z-2300’s are basically mini-PA systems, using any medium power 8 ohm speakers found at thriftshops. I prefer JBl control 1’s by the way, they sound excellent on a Z-2300 sub and can handle the power easily.

    Happy Hacking,

      1. No, control pods are not necessary anymore.
        I used normal, storebought potmeters since I always buy z-2300 without the controlpod. They are dirt cheap if the control is missing or dead.
        When modifying them, I simply wire the pod’s components, only a few resistors, between the pcb inside the z-2300 and the potmeters. As described, i turn the two rca sockets from speaker outputs into line-inputs, they are conveniently placed near the vga socket and when you drill two holes for the pots between the rca’s and the vga you can wire it all up with simple cat5 wires. When you open a z-2300’s backplate you’ll see how that works. There’s just enough space between the edge of the pcb and the rca sockets to put two potmeters in.

    1. Do you have images of how you have the resistors lined up?
      I just recently picked up the z-2300 woofer box for $10 at a Goodwill and with the variations that everyone has contributed, I’m at a loss of even where to start.
      The only thing similar to this that I’ve got experience with was an Acoustimass Module woofer which was easy, all I had to do was find the LR channels through the serial port and
      then just plug it into the sub RCA port on the stereo receiver. This is a headache at best and the more I read it, the more confused I become, when looking at the board references and then trying to makes sense of it from there.

    2. Hi Doctor X, thanks for your post on the forum. I have the z2300 sub and would also like to use it in the same way you have: convert the RCA outputs into inputs, install 2 speaker outputs in the MDF enclosure and mount 2 pots (one for satellite speaker volume, one for subwoofer volume) also in the MDF. Please can you send me photos, or diagrams to assist, unfortunately im not smart enough to decipher the PCB diagrams?
      i understand how the positive input RCA wires inside go to pin 6 &12 of the VGA terminal, and the negative wires join and go to pin 3. Join pin 5 and 15 with a wire for power to be on. And connect the original output wires that used to go to RCAs for satellite speakers, to the new output terminals im planning to install. But i do not understand what pins to connect to the pots, and where the resistor are supposed to go.

  9. Hi everyone,

    I would just like to let everyone know my findings after fixing my own original control pod for my z2300.

    The reason everyone has issues with the control pod is due to the left speaker no longer working. This is actually due to the line in cable failing and nothing else. Over time the core of the cable breaks therefore causing signal loss.

    I have today fixed my control pod by replacing the line in cable using a 3.5mm jack to 3 core bare end cable. The cable is one meter long and has the required third core for the ground/control signal. It can be bought off eBay for less than £2.

    Hope this helps anyone who has this issue but can’t build a replacement controller or doesn’t want to buy one. You just need a soldering iron in order to unsolder the old cable and solder the new one in.

  10. Hi
    Very good write up, I have a question about some other make of PC speakers I hope it is ok to ask?
    Do you have any idea if a headphone socket could be wired to Harmon Kardon HK395 2:1 PC speakers. If it can be done how would I go about doing this?

    Thank you

  11. I ordered a new vol control from Mouser RK09L12D0A1W, awesome service btw, Texas to Toronto in 1 day. New control plus re-flowing the board connections fixed my problem.
    I did try building one with local supplier parts based on schematic but wasn’t successful.

  12. HI

    Thanks for this wonderful post. Much, much more informative than others.

    I just wonder what the purpose of the R106 – 591 Ohm in parallel with the subwoofer input?

    Does this act as a low-pass filter?

    If I am building a quick-and-dirty circuit for sub-only input, do I need it?


    1. The 590 ohm resistor is only an attenuator, it provides a pretty low resistance for the return signal to the sub and forms a voltage divider with r105. The reason for this is the fact that they use the high-power headphone signals coming from the z-2300’s internals to sum the left-right components and attenuate the mono bass returnsignal. The resulting signal without the r106-r105 divider would be way to high for the bass amplifier section’s inputs.
      The filtering for the bass and high signals is all done in the z-2300’s preamp section with active filters, the pod is just a passive device for convenience but it does make the design a bit unlogical.

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  14. Hey guys,

    Kinda reviving this as its a pretty cool project and i plan to succeed. i happened to get the Z-2300 for free from someone who wanted to throw it off. I was fortunate enough to find this thread and got it to work but i have a slight issue. The left channel from Pin 12 doesnt seem to work for some reason. I also purchased a bypass cable (in which the sub doesnt sound as good because it doesnt have the filtering resistors i guess). With that cable the left channel and right channel works well. Im wondering, is this happening because i dont have the complete circuit wired up? i have everything wired up except the headphone out from LHP and RHP. I also have the exact value resistors because previously, i used E12 resistors which matched up to the required values. so i was hoping that getting the exact value resistors will solve the weird issue with the left channel not recieving anything. Ive tested with multiple jacks as well.

    Another strange discovery is that if i use pin 14 (which is unused) instead of 12, left and right is detected but left is heavily attenuated.

  15. Hi my friend Logitech z623 can not find the vga connection of my device is broken? I don’t know which colored tip will be connected to how many VGAs they don’t want to do. Do you know anything about it thanks

  16. Really nice creativity… this post can very helpful for our new generation and youths. I really thankful to you, for providing us this kind of post…

  17. Hola.buenos días tengo la duda si logro resolver el problema con la salida izquierda.
    Y cuál fue la solución,por que yo tengo el mismo problema.
    Si me pudiera ayudar lo agradecería muncho. Gracias

  18. The Z-2300 is the best computer speaker ever built,,,after some equalization nothing sounds like it,,,I am speaker builder I know what I’m telling

    1. Not only is it a computer speaker.
      I use z-2300’s in pairs for mobile dj soundsystems. For small gigs 2 units, for bigger ones 4. Instead of the stock topspeakers I use JBL Control 1’s which can handle serious amounts of power and will survive playing max volume for several days(!)
      While they might not be the absolutely loudest PA system, they sure do sound a whole lot better then comparable sized PA systems.
      A while ago I hosted an area at a dancefestival where all other area’s used Funktion One speakersystems but quite a lot of people noticed our area as being more warm, rich sounding, more relaxing for the ears even when it was shockingly loud. THX-Certified clubbing, who would have thought? This was an area of approx. 200 people, next time I’ll bring four z-2300’s and put them at the four corners of the area for better coverage. This time I only had 2, which says a lot about the power of the z-2300.
      It is a near-perfect small speaker system for any occasion where you want banging loud sound that sounds absolutely faithfull and well balanced.
      These units deserve nothing but high praise.

      1. Hey Doc. you seem like the man i need to talk to. I have 6 Z 2300 amps. Im making a min PA system. I plan to get 6 more and go up to 12 subs. There in mini Scoop enclosers.
        What my problem is, is can i control the sub volume and satalites seperatly? For example could i turn the satalites down and the subs up as i play Dub music and want the bass higher than the mids. I have worked out that the satalites get the main volume and pass it back to the subs. Want to be able to turn the satalites down without turning down the bass signal. I was thinking to use a small preamp and volume pot to conect a signal to pin 1 then use a un preamped signal to the regular input. Does this make sense?

  19. Hello fellow rebuilders!

    Just got my hands on a Logitech Z-2300 without the control pod and the satelites for free.
    My plan is to rebuild it as a active subwoofer for mye workshop.

    I followed the schematic just as it says (I am a computerengineer and very used to soldering but just do not understand audio.)
    It works, BUT max volume is probably 4% if the max volume with a real control pod. I can bearly hear it. But the potentiometer do adjust the volume from 0 – 4%, so do the subwoofer potentiometer.

    What can i be doing wrong? The funny thing is that when i remove signal ground (pin 3 on the 15pin) everything gets reeeeeal loud, but when i then pause the music, there is a constant low noise coming from the woofer. probably at 50% of max volume.

    Can any1 help me out here? I can provide both video and pictures of my setup.

    Thanks in advance!

  20. Hello
    Does anyone have greber files? I can’t draw a pcb to make a board. I have this set without a remote control and would like to use it in the bedroom.

  21. Hi all,

    two extremely left hands here but the controlpad is exactly what I need!
    Does anyone know any other way to get it, except for the manual option?

    Thanks in advance!

  22. Hi , can I get a link to buy the pcb please ? I don’t find it on oshpark , my z-2300 remote start to have problems, my right speaker doesn’t have much sound anymore, I even replace de 3.5 Jack cable . Since the control pod is hard to find anymore or to expensive I I’ll like to give a try to build one on my one . I kindly ask you please someone help me to buy this pcb , I really don’t want to give up on my z2300 !!

  23. i have designed an improved control pod with 2 more functions and work perfecly since 2 years .but is built in the air and not a classic and profi pcb.If anyone want to make me the gerber file i can say the improves.tnx

  24. Hey guys,
    would anyone be able to help me with a super simple hack to get the z2300 working without buying a new remote control pod please?
    For example, get an old VGA cable, join wires of pin 5 & 15 together for power to stay on;
    connect pin 6 & 12 to the positive wires, and pin 3 to the common negative wire of a pair of female RCA wires, to make new audio source inputs;
    install 2 pots in the MDF and connect it to which pins;
    and where the resistors are supposed to go?
    Any help would be much appreciated,
    because unfortunately i can’t understand the schematics and PCB diagrams 🙂

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