Back in October I purchased a standalone Z-2300 subwoofer on eBay, knowing I could build a DIY remote control pod based on my working Z-2300 set. I disassembled my original remote and deciphered the pinout in a matter of hours. A board was sent off to BatchPCB the next day; two weeks later, I posted this video on YouTube:
Since then, I’ve received dozens of messages from fellow Z-2300 owners, all asking for more information.
Here’s the deal: It would be unethical of me to release the schematic and/or circuit board for public usage, and quite possibly a breach of Logitech’s intellectual property. There are no copyright, trademark, or patent markings on the Z-2300 speaker set or the control pod’s circuit board. However, a Logitech Product Team member at the Logitech message board writes:
“The wiring diagram is not a public document.“
This is understandable—no company publicly releases schematics for their products, and definitely does not allow for others to profit from the company’s products/services. As an engineer, I wholeheartedly respect that.
What is bothersome is Logitech’s backwards policy on replacement parts. I’ve owned my Z-2300 set since late 2005. The volume control has always exhibited terrible channel balance at low volumes. This is caused by differences in the left and right potentiometer gangs, which are pronounced at the lower and upper thresholds of rotation. Such tolerance errors are common amongst dual-ganged pots. There are two fixes: 1) Replace the potentiometer and hope for less error, or 2) Implement attenuation circuitry at the audio input (series resistors), such that the maximum counter-clockwise position of the potentiometer is avoided. I could’ve fixed this imbalance myself. Instead, it was easier to raise the volume on the pod and decrease volume at the PC. Anyway, I called Logitech’s support line one day to see about the prospect of purchasing a replacement remote control. After explaining the annoyance, I was kindly told that Logitech could send me a completely new Z-2300 set for free. Not even a shipping charge. What?! I was willing to shell out cash for a replacement part, and here they were offering to send me a $200 speaker set on their bill.
It turns out this is how Logitech’s warranty works. Rather than repair a faulty device or send out (or sell) replacement parts, they prefer to give away brand new products. I can see how the cost of labor for repairs could be less than profitable, but surely it would be cheaper to send out small replacement parts rather than entire product sets. The Z-2300′s remote control cannot be worth more than $10 in parts—probably much less considering they’re mass produced. Although fantastic for customer service, this approach to repairs is incredibly wasteful. Logitech is a fantastic company, and I was appreciative of their offer, but I declined. I did not need or want a second Z-2300 set (at the time). I was just nitpicking…
Logitech’s wasteful policy affects products besides their Z-2300. A few eBay sellers offer hand-made audio interface cables for the Z-5500, which bypass its digital remote control. These $5-$10 contraptions sell for ridiculous prices ($45-$80). Considering that there are no replacement parts to be sold, this is a clear case of demand outweighing supply. So, the question is, why on Earth doesn’t Logitech sell replacement parts? It would be profitable!
With all of that said, I would very much like to release the information I have unearthed. From the messages I’ve received, it is clear that plenty of people with out-of-warranty Z-2300′s are interested in purchasing Logitech replacement parts. Several people have lost their control pods during moves; some have dropped or otherwise broken them; some want to tap into the circuitry for unique modifications (often multiple subwoofers…); some, like me, just wanted a better performing volume control.
Since I cannot publicly release my replacement Z-2300 control pod PCB, or even the schematic or pinout, below are pictures taken during the disassembly of the pod:
The PCB silkscreen provides wiring labels for all 9 wires (plus 1 shield “wire”). Of course, you’d have to open the pod up yourself and use a continuity checker to find out which pins of the High Density 15-pin D-Sub connector these wires go to. Lastly, I can verify Logitech’s claim that standard VGA extension cables should not be used with Z-2300′s. The center row of pins for a VGA extension cable are all tied to ground. Logitech uses a single pin in this row for an audio signal. Anyone attempting to extend the interface cable should make sure to use a pin wired 1:1 (that is, pin 1 is wired to pin 1, pin to goes to pin 2, etc., and no pins are tied together).
EDIT (April 27, 2010) – SCHEMATIC RELEASED!
DISCLAIMER: This design is for personal use only. Information is provided without warranty, either expressed or implied. Schematic and information below may contain intellectual property of Logitech.
Someone by the name of “HxCxK” independently uncovered and released a rendition of the Z-2300 schematic last month. Since he has let the cat out of the bag, below is what I originally found:
Miscellaneous schematic notes:
- Resistor R108 omitted (serves to buffer supply rail into standby pin; not critical)
- Potentiometers not measured (10k parts are common and work well in this circuit)
- Capacitors C100, C101 are optional. Someone with more free time may wish to investigate the frequency response with and without these parts.
Principles of Operation:
- A stereo audio signal comes in through the green 3.5mm connector.
- Signal passes through the remote’s main volume potentiometer for attenuation.
- Signal is then fed down to the subwoofer enclosure for pre-amplification.
- The pre-amplifier(s) distribute the audio into two places:
a) To the left and right satellite amplifier (and subsequently to the 2 speakers)
b) Back up to the remote. - Inside the remote, the signal is split again:
a) To the headphone jack
b) To the subwoofer potentiometer (where it is combined to mono at this point) - Output from the subwoofer potentiometer finally gets fed back into the enclosure and last, into the subwoofer amplifier.
D-15 Connector Pinout:
| Pin | PCB Name | Description |
| 1 | SLINE | Subwoofer Line Input |
| 2 | (unused) | |
| 3 | SGND | Signal/Audio Ground |
| 4 | PGND | Power Ground |
| 5 | STDBY | Standby, Active Low |
| 6 | RL | Right Line Input |
| 7 | (unused) | |
| 8 | (unused) | |
| 9 | (unused) | |
| 10 | (unused) | |
| 11 | RHP | Right Headphone Output |
| 12 | LL | Left Line Input |
| 13 | LHP | Left Headphone Output |
| 14 | (unused) | |
| 15 | VREG | 15V Supply Rail |
See images above for connector numbering. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:
Pin 12: Left Input
Pin 6: Right Input
Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
Pin 3: Audio Ground
Printed Circuit Board:
The board can be purchased from BatchPCB in unassembled form. This is entirely non-profit. As such, NO SUPPORT IS PROVIDED. You are on your own.
Top View of Board
Top Copper Layer
Bottom Copper Layer
Parts List:
| Reference | Part Description | Part # | Qty |
| J1 | STX-3100-3C | 806-STX-3100-3C | 1 |
| J2 | STX-3100-9N | 806-STX-3100-9C | 1 |
| R102, R103 | 2.85k resistor | 271-2.87K-RC | 2 |
| R105 | 3.62k resistor | 271-3.6K-RC | 1 |
| R104 | 4k resistor | 271-4.02K-RC | 1 |
| R107 | 10.2k resistor | 271-10.2K-RC | 1 |
| R100, R101 | 33 resistor | 271-33-RC | 2 |
| R106 | 591 resistor | 271-590-RC | 1 |
| U2 | Alps RK0971221Z0 (10k, Volume) | 688-RK0971221Z05 | 1 |
| J3 | ICD15S13E6GV00LF | ICD15S13E6GV00LF | 1 |
| U3 | Alps RK09712200MC (10k, 15mm) | 688-RK09712200MC | 1 |
| LED1 | 3mm LED | 1 | |
| C100, C101 | 0.01uF Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor | C324C103K5R5TA | 2 |
| [Cable] | Male to Female, HD, 15-pin D-Sub | AE1380-ND | 1 |
Edit (12/18/2010):
iNeedFixin.com” href=”http://www.ineedfixin.com”>purchased from an independent builder.
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Hi, I have a Z-2300 system, but my remote pod audio cable has stared to not work, I believe it’s the actual cable probably closer to the pod rather than the input because I tried mending it with a pair of headphone wires. I was wondering, how would I be able to fix that cable from the board. Thanks.
Does the aftermarket remote pod for the Z-2300 have an on-off power button? Or, it it powered by plugging it and unplugging it every time it is used?
The power switch is built into the volume control.
Hi John, i did send an email to namizich@gmail.com to ask about a replacement pod (no answer yet).The http://www.veridiantechnology.com they state “we are moving”.You know if they going to be back online again soon or any other information that might be helpful.Thanks.
I’m sure they’ll be back as soon as possible. Nick says they’re temporarily sold out and working on a new batch + new site.
Thank you for your fast answer John.I will wait a little but if they arent back after some time i hope you can help me(i try to contact you through this blog if so).Thanks again.
Hi John, i have a question regarding the control pod.First my issue is that i do not get sound from the left channel both speakers work though on the right channel normally.Subwoofer is also working.Only if i turn the volume to the max i get some slight sound from the speaker.So according to the principles of Operation( 4.The pre-amplifier(s) distribute the audio into two places:
a) To the left and right satellite amplifier (and subsequently to the 2 speakers), could my problem be on the amplifier or the problem is more likely the control pod.What is your thought?Thanks.
That’s likely a mechanical problem. What happens if you wiggle the 3.5mm audio cord?
I did wiggle the 3.5mm cord on the control pod and also on the end that connects to the soundcard.Nothing happened.Like before i can hear the sound coming from the speaker connected to the left channel jsut slight if i crank up the volume.I even opened the pod so i can wiggle better or to see if something isnt connected all seemed normal.I also measured the resistors on the pod according to the color code.The values seemed normal(so i far i saw , not an expert).When you say mechanical problem what you mean with?Should i open the subwoofer box to take a look for some wear on resistors?Thanks.
By mechanical, I meant audio cable, audio jack, or potentiometer. There is no audio jack, so it’s probably a bad cable. It’s very unlikely that the amplifier itself has failed.
Hmm ill take a look on the jack that connects to the soundcard.Probably i will plug in a new jack and solder it.The cables look ok no cut or anything else visible.Hope it works.I let you know the outcome of it.Might be helpful for others too.
Well i did fix the issue.Problem was the cable that connects to the sound card from the pod.It didnt had a visible sign of wear but still it was problematic.So thats it.Thanks again for your input John.
Hey I also have a z 2300 and was starting to get a short with the 3.5 mm cable that leaves the pod and connects to the PC..sent it by someone to repair and all he did was change some speaker wires for thicker ones and now one of the channels isnt working at all!
I was giving a RCA Y splitter to use to get sound on the 2 satellites from one channel :S
Is there a way to fix this? Or can I order a generic control pod from you all? it’s very annoying that I have to listen just one channel
Thanks for your help!
Hi,
My Z2300 power supply cord when connected to mains with the switch on remote in On position has created some problem within the unit, it won’t power on. I can see that when I connect the plug to mains some light sparking showing that the unit is drawing power, but the remote on/off switch does not respond. Can you suggest some check list/Points that can revive my unit. I have already checked the fuse it is fine
Hello Dont know if anyone is reading this but will give it a try. I have a Z2300 system aswell but the jack started to play up. i cut the wire and reconnected them which solved the problem for a while. i have reattached the wires without solder now for abou 3 months and now it has come to the point where i have no wire left at the loose end (jack end not control end). I would like to know if there is anywhere i can get a jack with wire to reconnect it and have a system that works again.
Thanks
ineedfixin.com
My sub is is not making any sound at all. I tested the sub woover and its good, could the problem be the remote? Remote works well,volume works,both satilites works. Could i test somehow if it is the remote or the pcb(amp)
Thanks
Can anybody please tell me where I can buy 1 of these?
got the same problem!
i was thinking to trow it away, but maybe its replaceable.
i tought i was the only one with this problem!!
Hi, do you perhaps sell those Z2300 controls or know where I can get. I have e-mailed iNeedFixin as well so I’m waiting for their reply.
I am in South Africa so if you do sell them would you ship here?
Regards
Rudi
Hey, I accidentally dropped my laptop onto the control pod, and it smashed in the bass boost, shattering the board. How much does it cost overall to build this?
Hi!
I just wanted to say thanks for the board and schematic!
I made a quick video while putting it together: http://youtu.be/tzqT5nAUXZo
Also, I have an extra board and parts. If anyone wants one, let me know!
Alvaro
Hi John. I have a working set of Logitech z2300 speakers and sub, control pod is working well. I also have an extra z2300 sub. If i purchase a HD DB15M To 2 X HD DB15F, Y splitter (http://www.alphacity.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=174_651&products_id=19381&zenid=894626cfdcbeecab3c1d94694f1e06b6), would I be able to split the signal to the 2 subs? If not I will just buy a bypass cable and split the signal at the 3.5 output jack from the sound source. But I’d like to be able to use the pod control for both. Thanks.
@Geoge G
Thank you very much for your tip i had the same problem with my z2300
And i changed the jack (which also seemed to be in good condition but my left speaker was really low while the right one will sound just fine ) that conects from my laptop to the pod and now its working again!!!!
Thank you!!!!!
Hey,
Any idea where to source the speaker in the remote units? My right unit stopped working — lines are good all the way to the speaker. Channel is working (switched speakers to check.) Case and cable are in excellent shape, speaker just quit.
Thanks for reading, even more if you can suggest a source to buy just the internal speaker.
Aloha,
m a r
Hello John. My Z-2300 speakers and subwoofer work fine – long as headphones aren’t plugged into the controller jack. With phones, one channel continuously cuts out, and I must rotate the headphone wire to get both. Also, bass adjustments aren’t noticeable through the headphone jack either. Does this sound like a new remote would solve the problem? Also, can the new remote be put in the old housing, or is it ok to just stand alone? Thanks in advance.