Logitech Z-2300 Remote Control Pod Disassembly

Back in October I purchased a standalone Z-2300 subwoofer on eBay, knowing I could build a DIY remote control pod based on my working Z-2300 set. I disassembled my original remote and deciphered the pinout in a matter of hours. A board was sent off to BatchPCB the next day; two weeks later, I posted this video on YouTube:

Since then, I’ve received dozens of messages from fellow Z-2300 owners, all asking for more information.

Here’s the deal: It would be unethical of me to release the schematic and/or circuit board for public usage, and quite possibly a breach of Logitech’s intellectual property. There are no copyright, trademark, or patent markings on the Z-2300 speaker set or the control pod’s circuit board. However, a Logitech Product Team member at the Logitech message board writes:

The wiring diagram is not a public document.

This is understandable—no company publicly releases schematics for their products, and definitely does not allow for others to profit from the company’s products/services. As an engineer, I wholeheartedly respect that.

What is bothersome is Logitech’s backwards policy on replacement parts. I’ve owned my Z-2300 set since late 2005. The volume control has always exhibited terrible channel balance at low volumes. This is caused by differences in the left and right potentiometer gangs, which are pronounced at the lower and upper thresholds of rotation. Such tolerance errors are common amongst dual-ganged pots. There are two fixes: 1) Replace the potentiometer and hope for less error, or 2) Implement attenuation circuitry at the audio input (series resistors), such that the maximum counter-clockwise position of the potentiometer is avoided. I could’ve fixed this imbalance myself. Instead, it was easier to raise the volume on the pod and decrease volume at the PC. Anyway, I called Logitech’s support line one day to see about the prospect of purchasing a replacement remote control. After explaining the annoyance, I was kindly told that Logitech could send me a completely new Z-2300 set for free. Not even a shipping charge. What?! I was willing to shell out cash for a replacement part, and here they were offering to send me a $200 speaker set on their bill.

It turns out this is how Logitech’s warranty works. Rather than repair a faulty device or send out (or sell) replacement parts, they prefer to give away brand new products. I can see how the cost of labor for repairs could be less than profitable, but surely it would be cheaper to send out small replacement parts rather than entire product sets. The Z-2300’s remote control cannot be worth more than $10 in parts—probably much less considering they’re mass produced. Although fantastic for customer service, this approach to repairs is incredibly wasteful. Logitech is a fantastic company, and I was appreciative of their offer, but I declined. I did not need or want a second Z-2300 set (at the time). I was just nitpicking…

Logitech’s wasteful policy affects products besides their Z-2300. A few eBay sellers offer hand-made audio interface cables for the Z-5500, which bypass its digital remote control. These $5-$10 contraptions sell for ridiculous prices ($45-$80). Considering that there are no replacement parts to be sold, this is a clear case of demand outweighing supply. So, the question is, why on Earth doesn’t Logitech sell replacement parts? It would be profitable!

With all of that said, I would very much like to release the information I have unearthed. From the messages I’ve received, it is clear that plenty of people with out-of-warranty Z-2300’s are interested in purchasing Logitech replacement parts. Several people have lost their control pods during moves; some have dropped or otherwise broken them; some want to tap into the circuitry for unique modifications (often multiple subwoofers…); some, like me, just wanted a better performing volume control.

Since I cannot publicly release my replacement Z-2300 control pod PCB, or even the schematic or pinout, below are pictures taken during the disassembly of the pod:


The PCB silkscreen provides wiring labels for all 9 wires (plus 1 shield “wire”). Of course, you’d have to open the pod up yourself and use a continuity checker to find out which pins of the High Density 15-pin D-Sub connector these wires go to. Lastly, I can verify Logitech’s claim that standard VGA extension cables should not be used with Z-2300’s. The center row of pins for a VGA extension cable are all tied to ground. Logitech uses a single pin in this row for an audio signal. Anyone attempting to extend the interface cable should make sure to use a pin wired 1:1 (that is, pin 1 is wired to pin 1, pin to goes to pin 2, etc., and no pins are tied together).

EDIT (April 27, 2010) – SCHEMATIC RELEASED!

DISCLAIMER: This design is for personal use only. Information is provided without warranty, either expressed or implied. Schematic and information below may contain intellectual property of Logitech.

Someone by the name of “HxCxK” independently uncovered and released a rendition of the Z-2300 schematic last month. Since he has let the cat out of the bag, below is what I originally found:

Miscellaneous schematic notes:

  • Resistor R108 omitted (serves to buffer supply rail into standby pin; not critical)
  • Potentiometers not measured (10k parts are common and work well in this circuit)
  • Capacitors C100, C101 are optional. Someone with more free time may wish to investigate the frequency response with and without these parts.

Principles of Operation:

  1. A stereo audio signal comes in through the green 3.5mm connector.
  2. Signal passes through the remote’s main volume potentiometer for attenuation.
  3. Signal is then fed down to the subwoofer enclosure for pre-amplification.
  4. The pre-amplifier(s) distribute the audio into two places:
    a) To the left and right satellite amplifier (and subsequently to the 2 speakers)
    b) Back up to the remote.
  5. Inside the remote, the signal is split again:
    a) To the headphone jack
    b) To the subwoofer potentiometer (where it is combined to mono at this point)
  6. Output from the subwoofer potentiometer finally gets fed back into the enclosure and last, into the subwoofer amplifier.

D-15 Connector Pinout:

Pin PCB Name Description
1 SLINE Subwoofer Line Input
2 (unused)
3 SGND Signal/Audio Ground
4 PGND Power Ground
5 STDBY Standby, Active Low
6 RL Right Line Input
7 (unused)
8 (unused)
9 (unused)
10 (unused)
11 RHP Right Headphone Output
12 LL Left Line Input
13 LHP Left Headphone Output
14 (unused)
15 VREG 15V Supply Rail

See images above for connector numbering. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:

Pin 12: Left Input
Pin 6: Right Input
Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
Pin 3: Audio Ground

Printed Circuit Board:

The board can be purchased from BatchPCB in unassembled form. This is entirely non-profit. As such, NO SUPPORT IS PROVIDED. You are on your own.


Top View of Board


Top Copper Layer


Bottom Copper Layer

Parts List:

Reference Part Description Part # Qty
J1 STX-3100-3C 806-STX-3100-3C 1
J2 STX-3100-9N 806-STX-3100-9C 1
R102, R103 2.85k resistor 271-2.87K-RC 2
R105 3.62k resistor 271-3.6K-RC 1
R104 4k resistor 271-4.02K-RC 1
R107 10.2k resistor 271-10.2K-RC 1
R100, R101 33 resistor 271-33-RC 2
R106 591 resistor 271-590-RC 1
U2 Alps RK0971221Z0 (10k, Volume) 688-RK0971221Z05 1
J3 ICD15S13E6GV00LF ICD15S13E6GV00LF 1
U3 Alps RK09712200MC (10k, 15mm) 688-RK09712200MC 1
LED1 3mm LED 1
C100, C101 0.01uF Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor C324C103K5R5TA 2
[Cable] Male to Female, HD, 15-pin D-Sub AE1380-ND 1

Edit (12/18/2010):

iNeedFixin.com” href=”http://www.ineedfixin.com”>purchased from an independent builder.

192 thoughts on “Logitech Z-2300 Remote Control Pod Disassembly”

  1. Hi!
    Thanks for sharing diagram for z2300.
    I have a question.
    Is it possible to use this unit with no volume control, just turning on, and apply audio signal for subwoofer.
    I just want to use it with my Onkyo receiver.

    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    See images above for connector numbering. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:

    Pin 12: Left Input
    Pin 6: Right Input
    Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
    Pin 3: Audio Ground
    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    Thanks in advance.

      1. Just to make sure I am understanding this correctly… We can plug directly into those 4 pins and skip past the circuit board/volume control pod/board and any/all of the resistor, etc..? This won’t blow the speaker?

          1. I would like to know if is posible to skip the whole unit simply using a Jack or RCA to VGA wire, and use a receiver and its software to control the volume. Is that what you did?
            (I have no idea about what I am talking about).

            Thanks in advance

          2. Yes, bridge over the potentiometer gangs, then hardwire the device to be constantly powered on. Noise performance will be poor and bass boost might be ridiculous. I recommend experimenting with resistors in place of the bass potentiometer. You’ll want to at least fix bass to a reasonable level.

  2. I’d like to thank you for the efforts you have put in penning this blog.
    I’m hoping to see the same high-grade blog posts from you later on
    as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has encouraged me to get my own, personal site now 😉

  3. Hello

    I also own the Z2300 speakers and it seems that my volume-control potentiometer, is at its last days. Sound from one of the speakers disappears, and it is not controlling the volume as it should be.

    After looking at the pictures and reading the article i decided to replace the potentiometer it self, without making a complete new control-unit.

    Can you please help me with the details on the potentiometer??
    I’m looking for a 8-pin, 10K, Linear pot??
    Right?

    Thanks a lot !

  4. Thank you very much. Which kind of resistors would fit my needs? I also thought using software to equalise the sound instead, but I suppose that noise levels would be higher.

    1. Any 1% metal film, 1/8 or 1/4W size will work. You’ll have to experiment with values. Start in the 1k-10k range. No higher than 100k.

      1. Looks like you had a great mother’s day! You tolltay don’t look pregnant. It seems like you ate a lot and need to burp. Lol.This Cookn’ Mom recently posted..

      2. I concur, I also cannot seem to also reach this link, there was a problem loading the page, according the Firefox resultant; the server cannot be found.

    1. About the AuthorEmpower Network EN-WWSJoin the business revuootiln that is captivating the Internet marketing industry, Empower Network EN-WWS. Earn 100% commissions on all your sales, gain insight, top training and valuable information that will help you succeed and all in a TEAM environment that offers support, guidance and knowledge.Today is where you STOP dreaming and START living your dreams with us, Empower Network EN-WWS Join right now, take action with us….TODAY. There is no TRY…only DO!Sincerely,- Empower Network EN-WWS

  5. I have two z-2300s. One powers the left spkr, the other, the right. I have the volume control on both cranked to max. and control the overall volume with a Mission preamp. The question I have is, does the preamp in the Z2300s negate the higher quality preamp of the Mission since they (the Z2300s) are down stream of the Mission?
    thanks for all your great information,
    Bill

    1. @Bill: Yes, gain of the Z2300 preamp is high and adds audible noise, so I image it’s defeating the quality of your external preamp.

  6. Thanks for the fast reply. You had to have known this was coming at you next …. is there a way to disable (not even sure if that is advisable) the pre-amp in the z2300s? Also, is it possible to bridge the amp in the Z2300?

    See what you’ve started by initiating this blog?

    best regards,
    Bill

    1. The satellites and sub use TDA7295/TDA7296. It’s electrically acceptable to bridge the chip. The datasheet discusses 4 ohm loads, and even shows a 2.7 ohm example load (approx. bridged 6 ohm speakers): http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000198.pdf

      Keep an eye on temperatures. Logitech uses a massive heatsink, which I suspect is overkill and will probably handle a bridged load. But I could be wrong.

      Yes, you could bypass the preamp and wire input signals directly to the chipamps. Hacking required, of course.

      1. Hi can you tell me how to bypass or the pinout of a bose companion 3 serie 1. The person that give It to me lost the control pod and i am working on how to turn It on so if you have someting that can help mi i whill apresiate It. thanks you for your time.

  7. I’ve always considered the ‘Audio community’ to be an amiable one and you’ve just reinforced those sentiments. Thanks, who ever you are. I for sure won’t be able to perform the instruction set you’ve laid out to achieve my desired result but now I have something that I can take to a professional and commission him to implement the hacks.

    So very grateful,

    thanks again,
    Bill

  8. Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an incredibly long comment but after I
    clicked submit my comment didn’t show up. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that
    over again. Anyways, just wanted to say wonderful blog!

    1. It gives it a larger look all done in the same floirong but not always good if you don’t want it to be like a big gymnasium but prefer a cozy home atmosphere. Where you step up, definetely needs not be the same; the kitchen and dining room being one level, still doesn’t need to be the same. A really classy way to separate those rooms is tile one then with a line or curve, go right into carpet or wood or whatever but keep it in the same color scheme. The continuous color flow will keep it from being chopped up looking but you’ll have the different textures that designate one room being a different room from the other.

  9. Thanks jseaber.
    I have a problem that I first thought was coming from the Bass Unit of the Z 2300 system. I was intermittently loosing the Audio from the left speaker & the Bass Speaker… After much fiddling I have narrowed the problem down to a broken wire in the remote control unit where the cable enters the remote…. Since reading your blog I will be able to fix this problem for good…. Thanks for doing such a great job in producing your information and sharing it with others who could have problems in the future……. Regards, & thanks…. Billy

  10. Would you perhaps be able to write a diagram on how to make a bypass cable so you can just control the sound level via your computer? I really don’t want to pay 40$ for a replacement pod or 25$ for a wire, which is a simple d sub cable.

    1. I love the three shades of lpitsick! ) plus lip balm and gloss. Rosary, eco bag, alcohol, moleskine, black pen, pencil, pink pen, crackers and tea 4-5kgs. every single day! hahaha

  11. I used to work at the bux (US) and saw a couple amtttpes at sugar free mocha syrups come and go, also never saw a SF peppermint so I’m not sure the Skinny peppermint mocha calories are correct. It might be available only in certain markets. If you order this make sure it is sugar free, nonfat and no whip rather than just nonfat/no whip or you might be getting an additional 100 cal or so. Everything else seems about right tho, just trying to look out for my fellow Berries!

  12. Hi can you tell me how to bypass or the pinout of a bose companion 3 serie 1. The person that give It to me lost the control pod and i am working on how to turn It on so if you have someting that can help mi i whill apresiate It thanks you for your time

  13. Thanks for the great info. My system stopped putting out any bass (very low volume). I borrowed another sub thinking it was my sub and the same thing. I think my remote is to blame.

    Any update on where we can get the PCB? The link is dead.

    Thanks again.

  14. I use my Logitech z2300 for amplified TV audio. During normal video viewing
    I feel the bass is too strong. I have the base control to minimum.
    With all this knowledge of wiring . Could I install an additional potentiometer to Subwoofer on input wire and further limit the bass output?
    in simple terms, what type and value of potentiometer do I need and how would I wire it. I would like to physically mount potentiometer on subwoofer. Plan on drilling hole on back panel to mount pot. Would I interrupt the wire on pin 1 with potentiometer?

  15. Buenas, gracias por la informacion , me ha sido de
    gran utilidad, la compartire !!!Besos!!!!.

    Hola, buenísimo el artículo, muy util, lo compartire.

    Abrazos a todos

    Buenas, gracias por la informacion , me ha sido de enorme utilidad, la compartire !!!Abrazos!!!!.

    Muchas gracias por entregar a todos una fantástica posibilidad como para leer los comentarios críticos de
    este weblog.

    Siempre es muy fantástico y también rellena con un montón de diversión para mí y mis
    compañeros de oficina los trabajadores a visitar el blog más de
    tres veces a la r
    semana para leer mediante los nuevos consejos que has conseguido.
    Y, de hecho, estoy tan a menudo satisfechas con sus ideas creativas atractivas que usted sirve.

    Algunas áreas dos de este artículo son sin duda el más eficiente todo cuanto hemos
    tenido.

    Super-Duper weblog Soy cariñoso !! Volveremos después a leer un tanto más.

    Empleo los feeds Asimismo

    Yo simplemente no podía salir de su lugar ya antes de sugerir que me agradó mucho la información habitual una persona proporcione para sus visitantes?

    Hmm es cualquier otra persona teniendo problemas con las imágenes en este
    weblog carga? Trato de averiguar si es un problema en mi final o bien si es el weblog.

    Cualquier respuesta sería valoradísima.

    Como novato, estoy navegando de forma permanente online para los artículos que me puede ayudar.
    Gracias

    Temas maravillosos en total, que acaba de ganar un nuevo lector.
    ¿Qué podría sugerir sobre su publican que termina de crear un puñado de días
    en el pasado?

  16. Thanks for sharing that with us!
    I bought a Z-2300 without remote for 35€ (~40$) and with your shematic I made a Remote for 15€ (~17$)

    Here a pic, the quality of the pic is not the best.

    Thanks, great job man!
    2015030804194223ut9.jpg

    1. Hello, I recently bought a z2300 off ebay.It appears to be in really good condition. Control pod works good no noticeable problems with volume pot. I have it connected to my TV. My problem is the bass is overpowering even with the bass to minimum. I installed a simple toggle switch in the sub box to turn off the subwoofer when family is around. How can I get more adjustment out of the bass control on the pod? Would a 10k pot in series with that #1 wire for the sub input give me more adjustability? I wonder if these replacement pods on ebay go from no bass to max bass similar to a regular amplifier Thanks

    2. Hi,

      How complicated is it to create one of these things? I have zero knowledge with soldering. Any ideas for me?

      Help…. please lol

    1. The builder probably used a potentiometer which differs from the original component value. This part seems to have a noticeable effect.

      1. Thanks for that info(and the very prompt reply). The sound from the speakers is also much, much louder. Even with the audio playback software(Creative Mediasource 5 Player) set at 45% and the speakers(Win 7 playback device) set also at 45% it begins to sound like the speakers might blow if I upped the volume much more. I think I may be better off buying one of the actual control pods available to purchase on ebay, at least those devices have a vol control handy and they are more likely to behave similar to the original control pod.
        Cheers,

        Gerry.

    2. Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows, or is willing to investigate, and explain findings about this cables values.. I am probably unable to afford the resources to learn about so much, partly having seemingly much less comparative, and related knowledge, to easily come back with a greater contribution myself, at this time.

      I have concerns about the employment of this cable regarding noise and coloration.

      I understand that the oem system adds a bass boost to the satellites(at least) via an affect in control pod handling, in all circumstances, but can be escaped by user modifications to the pod.. I understand this is done to drive the satellites harder, and perhaps the sub as well, since mid-range via the satellite 63.5mm(?)(2.5in) driver, is lacking, compensation is made to support the systems frequency range. This might explain why users who’ve employed a third party control pod; find a different bass response. 2(a)(b) Without the stock control pod affect on the signal.

      I had imagined that any lower mid range boosting might be avoided by using this cable. Reading this post here, however, I am left with even more questions regarding the signal handling. And I do not have the original system, or equipment, in it’s entirety, for a personal ab comparison, nor the tools for objective testing. I am also time broke due to personal matters.

      I intend to use this system, hopefully without the satellite bass boost effect, in conjunction with a speaker array(is that my new term? I think so).. where multiple speakers, and amps, handle a signal, and more cone is employed in the mids, and upper bass. So the inherent systems boosting for compensation is less desirable by me at this time. Anyhow, more information here about the bypass cable system is of interest, and there is demand. Thank you for making this resource available.

      but this leaves me with even more questions since I previously understood signal modifications happened in the control pod, i figured doing away with it would do away with the system-specific affected signal, for myself, however, after reading your comments, i cant help but wonder, what is happening to the signal in the sub box. Is it all being boosted, or just the bass response or just the mids?

      Perhaps bass boost is happening all in the control pod, and this polarized affect is being amplified to a certain degree, which is meant to account only part ways for the satellite deficiencies, and then after the signal is split, again boosts the whole signal.. to account for the remainder. So what may be happening, by employing this cable, is resulting in us getting a whole signal overdrive, instead of a stock frequency range boost?

      To address your question, I think in “normal circumstances”, the speakers should only be able to draw what they are capable of handling, however, we do not have a “normal” circumstance here, since the signal is intentionally affected.. and these speakers might be designed specifically to handle the affected signal as it is.

      I would hazard a guess that your speakers should not blow up.. though I suspect they are working out of design parameters. Maybe a signal equalizer would help? Does only the volume in the bass or mid region seem increased for you Gerry, or are the higher frequencies and lower, also affected by this volume boosting?

      Secondly, to determine the problem, to the benefit of other interested parties, while employing this cable; can you match the volume coming from the subwoofer; to the volume of the stock control pod? With the satellites unplugged, coloration of the situation can be avoided. Say using a test sound. If we had a meter, we could capture the volume differences, and make the setting to the pods, or cable. To see if we can match them for at least a certain sound. Find a good reference point for the stock z-2300 speaker system, maybe 50 percent volume, and 50 percent bass? Whatever produce the most “normal” volume.

      Switch to the new cable or control pod. Having a bias in our adjustment towards less bass dial and more volume attenuation, and make adjustments towards an even point. Maybe we could find better test results, matching a low bass sound, first, and then try to match to a higher bass sound. leaving the software as it is throughout all tests. Or start at a high frequency..

      In fact, first you might find, with the satellites plugged in, does affecting the bypass subwoofer nob have ANY affect on the volume of a bird sound? Crank’er down then, crank’er up for the test! Return the bass nob to it’s position prior, this bird frequency test.

      After this, match the two control pods as close as possible, leave the knobs where they are throughout the following procedure. Plug in the satallites, and run a test sound, at a high frequency, like a bird sound, use a metre, or your ear, mark a value of one control. Taking a few samples is often good practice and in many cases could produce a more consistent result and more accurate finding. Switch to the stock control pod, and take a sample using the same sound, do the volume measurements match each other? Roughly? OR, is the volume offset the same difference as found in the lower bass region?

      This can help indicate to us if it is just a difference in a local affected range, say the mid range or if the high frequencies and low frequencies are also adjusted.

      Now, understanding this result, and having marked down some values, maybe notch the control knobs, and give them percentage values. Then we can test the frequency range around the satellites lower bass region and find the difference. And take lower mid range samples now. First from the sub, without the satellites, then the satellites. Take a few samples up the frequency range.. They say the z-2300 satellites kick in around 120-150hz mark.

      Now, I would like to know , without the satellites, can you perfectly match the sub response, volume and sounds, across it’s frequency range with the control pod, and with the bypass cable? And if not, which sounds better? Or more accurate?

      With all this data we can graph our findings, and see the problem, and possibly account for it ourselves, here and now. Or help us or others have a better understanding of what is involved, with using this cable, bypassing the stock control pod, using other third party solutions. This information, otherwise not here, legwork, and findings can be of benefit likely to many others than just ourselves.

      FYI, in the event that I do not return, you might be able to download an equalizer software for your computer system.. or use a y-splitter, 3.5mm to rca, to reach physical equalizer hardware, before mating the source to the speaker system. This would let you attenuate individual frequency ranges. This might help overcome a problem in the case where the frequencies are abnormally affected by boosting, either in a certain area, or across the board, but especially if the problem is local to a certain range, or broad and linear. Stereo equalizer hardware can be had on the cheap, just for this purpose, I suppose, on ebay. I have one I got for free when moving into a residence once upon a time..

      PS. Glad posting here doesn’t require membership.

      Also Jseaber, your article hyperlinks to the pcb solution offered beforem are no longer available.

      2a
      http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RSITDBJM7NZB9/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00KTT5N4U
      2b
      http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R11F66CSHBIZYO/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00KTT5N4U

  17. Hey, I’ve been having a problem with sound coming out of my left channel and was wondering if you could help me diagnose and fix the problem.

    When I switch the speakers, the sound switches to the other speaker. When I unplug the speaker in the right channel and turn the volume up very high, I can hear sound coming out of the speaker plugged into the left channel. When I plug my headphones into the headphone jack, sound only goes to the right ear, but plugging headphones directly to the computer works out fine.

    Is the problem in the control pod or the subwoofer, and how do I determine the area of the bad connection?

    Please help me or guide me to the proper resources. I am quite desperate.

    1. Hi there,
      it seams to be a problem with amp in subwoofer. To be specific – with the part called ‘Power output stage’ for a left channel. It’s a chip soldered into PCB. You have to go to electronic workshop to fix that.

  18. Hello, i have a small question about your Logitech Z2300 diagram. I see you said that you can omit capacitors C100 and C101, if i do that, does it mean i also mustn’t connect sound ground that goes from capacitor to ground?

  19. Hi , thanx for the z2300 diagram , alltho i’m not educated enough to solve my problem with it… I’m not an electrician / engineer: I just like to take broken stuff apart and try to fix it… I have a broken z2300 and from what I could see the jack cable was broken ( which I fixed ) and the 15-pin vga like plug seems to be damaged. I purchased a new plug but don’t know which wire goes on which pin , since the original plug is completely sealed in… could you help me figure out which color wire goes on which specific pin…?
    thanx a lot and have a lovely day!
    Dex

  20. hola amigos alguien tiene los planos de el z5300. no tengo el control y quiero dejarlo con el volumen directo, se puede?

  21. Does anyone know the name of or have a link to Batch PCB? I went there looking for the board but I have no idea how to search for it & with 1200 + pages of boards……..

  22. Hello Jseaber,

    I am trying to fix my Logitech G51 control pod. I am trying to determine the pin-out. It also works with a d15 connector to the subwoofer. Can you explain me the steps i need to take to do the pinnout. The wires are named in codes from wa1 to wa22. Some wa codes are left out. the total amount of wires from the d15 connector are 15 so all wires are used.

    Greetings
    Matthijs W

  23. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:

    Pin 12: Left Input
    Pin 6: Right Input
    Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
    Pin 3: Audio Ground
    ************************************
    My question is, how would i control the volume of the sub if i were to follow the above? or would the output volume be at max by default if the above is followed?

  24. Hello you experts!

    Hopefully someone can give me some advice on my z-2300 problem that just popped up this past week. The right channel will not turn down all the way. At mid-volumes, both speakers are at approximately the same volume, but as I turn down the volume knob, they both go down in volume together to a point, after which the left continues down to zero, but the right stays at the same volume (which is much too high when I’m coding, reading , or on the phone at work).

    I was hoping the cause was accidental changes to my PC sound settings, but connecting it to an iPod showed the same results. I’ve found a temporary work-around by setting my PC volume really low, so that I need to turn up the Logitech system higher to compensate, which puts it in the range where it works properly. However, reducing the PC volume so much decreases fidelity, so I would really like to fix the Logitech problem.

    I am not as familiar with electronics as most on this thread, but I am willing to give a repair a go if it is within reason of a hack like me! Has anyone had this same problem or at least knowledgeable about the cause?

    Thanks for any advice you can give.
    -Don

  25. Hi guys… my z2300 control pod headphones output its with a malfunction that makes the pod mute the speakers like it has always a headphone plugged :( there´s a way that I can bypass this? I dont matter lost the output for the headphones… but I want my speakers output back!!!

  26. i just got me a z-2300 woofer. i have three things missing. both left and right speakers and the volume control.

    on hand i do have different speakers rated as the original so i am really looking for the control pod.

    if anyone wants to help a guy with this project, please email me a price that is other than the prices i am finding online. i understand supply and demand and i read logitect will not sell replacement parts. that is so stupid to begin with.
    if you cannot support the item you are selling than you are providing a disservice to anyone that buys one.

    i do have this woofer, and it is missing those a & b speakers and control pod.
    i found one seller of the speaker’s would not go lower than 50.00 each which = 100.00 + shipping and 44.00 for the control pod. at these rates it seams it is better to de-stress and just buy a new outfit.

    after reading about all the fuss about parts, is this device really worth all this energy? is it just better to scrap the whole thing and just buy from someone else. there must be a 2.1 out there that sounds just as good. any advice on a brand that sounds just as good that i can look into? email me and i thank you in advance. with all the problems this item seams to generate maybe if logitect does not care, you all should show the same and treat it like junk-greg

    1. You can replace the Left and Right speakers with any ordinary bookshelf speakers. Simply wire the +/- terminals to an RCA connector. You can likely find used speakers on Craigslist.

      As for the control pod, you’re correct that it’s hardly worth replacing. DIY is the best way to minimize cost.

  27. Image 1
    Image 2

    this is how I did my fix. in one of the photos there are diodes to make this system Stereo, but it didnt work for me so I just made Mono system. also I neglected to add potentiometer on sub input. numbers on some pins show which pin is numbered which from the list this guy listed above. it works for me. spent 3 hours salvaging components from somewhere to use in my z2300 and it works perfectly. NOTICE: some tight packed soldering skills are required for this fix. feel free to do this if you want to spend $0.00 on wired remote :)

  28. Simply want to say your article is as astonishing. The clearness to your put up is simply great
    and that i can assume you are knowledgeable in this subject.
    Fine together with your permission let me to take hold of your feed to keep up to date with coming near near post.
    Thank you one million and please continue the enjoyable work.

  29. From next monday i’m gonna lose weight. Summer is
    comming girls! Who starts with me? I found a good method in google and want to give it a try, simply type in go0gle;
    fitMarikka advices – burn fat

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

You can add images to your comment by clicking here.