Logitech Z-2300 Remote Control Pod Disassembly
Back in October I purchased a standalone Z-2300 subwoofer on eBay, knowing I could build a DIY remote control pod based on my working Z-2300 set. I disassembled my original remote and deciphered the pinout in a matter of hours. A board was sent off to BatchPCB the next day; two weeks later, I posted this video on YouTube:
Since then, I've received dozens of messages from fellow Z-2300 owners, all asking for more information.
Here's the deal: It would be unethical of me to release the schematic and/or circuit board for public usage, and quite possibly a breach of Logitech's intellectual property. There are no copyright, trademark, or patent markings on the Z-2300 speaker set or the control pod's circuit board. However, a Logitech Product Team member at the Logitech message board writes:
"The wiring diagram is not a public document."
This is understandable---no company publicly releases schematics for their products, and definitely does not allow for others to profit from the company's products/services. As an engineer, I wholeheartedly respect that.
What is bothersome is Logitech's backwards policy on replacement parts. I've owned my Z-2300 set since late 2005. The volume control has always exhibited terrible channel balance at low volumes. This is caused by differences in the left and right potentiometer gangs, which are pronounced at the lower and upper thresholds of rotation. Such tolerance errors are common amongst dual-ganged pots. There are two fixes: 1) Replace the potentiometer and hope for less error, or 2) Implement attenuation circuitry at the audio input (series resistors), such that the maximum counter-clockwise position of the potentiometer is avoided. I could've fixed this imbalance myself. Instead, it was easier to raise the volume on the pod and decrease volume at the PC. Anyway, I called Logitech's support line one day to see about the prospect of purchasing a replacement remote control. After explaining the annoyance, I was kindly told that Logitech could send me a completely new Z-2300 set for free. Not even a shipping charge. What?! I was willing to shell out cash for a replacement part, and here they were offering to send me a $200 speaker set on their bill.
It turns out this is how Logitech's warranty works. Rather than repair a faulty device or send out (or sell) replacement parts, they prefer to give away brand new products. I can see how the cost of labor for repairs could be less than profitable, but surely it would be cheaper to send out small replacement parts rather than entire product sets. The Z-2300's remote control cannot be worth more than $10 in parts---probably much less considering they're mass produced. Although fantastic for customer service, this approach to repairs is incredibly wasteful. Logitech is a fantastic company, and I was appreciative of their offer, but I declined. I did not need or want a second Z-2300 set (at the time). I was just nitpicking...
Logitech's wasteful policy affects products besides their Z-2300. A few eBay sellers offer hand-made audio interface cables for the Z-5500, which bypass its digital remote control. These $5-$10 contraptions sell for ridiculous prices ($45-$80). Considering that there are no replacement parts to be sold, this is a clear case of demand outweighing supply. So, the question is, why on Earth doesn't Logitech sell replacement parts? It would be profitable!
With all of that said, I would very much like to release the information I have unearthed. From the messages I've received, it is clear that plenty of people with out-of-warranty Z-2300's are interested in purchasing Logitech replacement parts. Several people have lost their control pods during moves; some have dropped or otherwise broken them; some want to tap into the circuitry for unique modifications (often multiple subwoofers...); some, like me, just wanted a better performing volume control.
Since I cannot publicly release my replacement Z-2300 control pod PCB, or even the schematic or pinout, below are pictures taken during the disassembly of the pod:
The PCB silkscreen provides wiring labels for all 9 wires (plus 1 shield "wire"). Of course, you'd have to open the pod up yourself and use a continuity checker to find out which pins of the High Density 15-pin D-Sub connector these wires go to. Lastly, I can verify Logitech's claim that standard VGA extension cables should not be used with Z-2300's. The center row of pins for a VGA extension cable are all tied to ground. Logitech uses a single pin in this row for an audio signal. Anyone attempting to extend the interface cable should make sure to use a pin wired 1:1 (that is, pin 1 is wired to pin 1, pin to goes to pin 2, etc., and no pins are tied together).
EDIT (April 27, 2010) - SCHEMATIC RELEASED!
DISCLAIMER: This design is for personal use only. Information is provided without warranty, either expressed or implied. Schematic and information below may contain intellectual property of Logitech.
Someone by the name of "HxCxK" independently uncovered and released a rendition of the Z-2300 schematic last month. Since he has let the cat out of the bag, below is what I originally found:
Miscellaneous schematic notes:
- Resistor R108 omitted (serves to buffer supply rail into standby pin; not critical)
- Potentiometers not measured (10k parts are common and work well in this circuit)
- Capacitors C100, C101 are optional. Someone with more free time may wish to investigate the frequency response with and without these parts.
Principles of Operation:
- A stereo audio signal comes in through the green 3.5mm connector.
- Signal passes through the remote’s main volume potentiometer for attenuation.
- Signal is then fed down to the subwoofer enclosure for pre-amplification.
- The pre-amplifier(s) distribute the audio into two places:
a) To the left and right satellite amplifier (and subsequently to the 2 speakers)
b) Back up to the remote. - Inside the remote, the signal is split again:
a) To the headphone jack
b) To the subwoofer potentiometer (where it is combined to mono at this point) - Output from the subwoofer potentiometer finally gets fed back into the enclosure and last, into the subwoofer amplifier.
D-15 Connector Pinout:
| Pin | PCB Name | Description |
| 1 | SLINE | Subwoofer Line Input |
| 2 | (unused) | |
| 3 | SGND | Signal/Audio Ground |
| 4 | PGND | Power Ground |
| 5 | STDBY | Standby, Active Low |
| 6 | RL | Right Line Input |
| 7 | (unused) | |
| 8 | (unused) | |
| 9 | (unused) | |
| 10 | (unused) | |
| 11 | RHP | Right Headphone Output |
| 12 | LL | Left Line Input |
| 13 | LHP | Left Headphone Output |
| 14 | (unused) | |
| 15 | VREG | 15V Supply Rail |
See images above for connector numbering. Those who wish to quickly test their Z-2300 can ignore most of this. The Z-2300 switches on when Pin 5 is connected to Pin 15. Then, apply audio signals as follows:
Pin 12: Left Input
Pin 6: Right Input
Pin 1: Subwoofer Input
Pin 3: Audio Ground
Printed Circuit Board:
The board can be purchased from BatchPCB in unassembled form. This is entirely non-profit. As such, NO SUPPORT IS PROVIDED. You are on your own.
Top View of Board
Top Copper Layer
Bottom Copper Layer
Parts List:
| Reference | Part Description | Part # | Qty |
| J1 | STX-3100-3C | 806-STX-3100-3C | 1 |
| J2 | STX-3100-9N | 806-STX-3100-9C | 1 |
| R102, R103 | 2.85k resistor | 271-2.87K-RC | 2 |
| R105 | 3.62k resistor | 271-3.6K-RC | 1 |
| R104 | 4k resistor | 271-4.02K-RC | 1 |
| R107 | 10.2k resistor | 271-10.2K-RC | 1 |
| R100, R101 | 33 resistor | 271-33-RC | 2 |
| R106 | 591 resistor | 271-590-RC | 1 |
| U2 | Alps RK0971221Z0 (10k, Volume) | 688-RK0971221Z05 | 1 |
| J3 | ICD15S13E6GV00LF | ICD15S13E6GV00LF | 1 |
| U3 | Alps RK09712200MC (10k, 15mm) | 688-RK09712200MC | 1 |
| LED1 | 3mm LED | 1 | |
| C100, C101 | 0.01uF Multilayer Ceramic Capacitor | C324C103K5R5TA | 2 |
| [Cable] | Male to Female, HD, 15-pin D-Sub | AE1380-ND | 1 |
March 24th, 2010 - 04:47
Hello It would be great if you could mail me a parts list for this remote as Id like to replicate it. I have the same great speakers but the remote got thrown away in a frantic clean up! I just cant justify putting a nice piece of kit like this in the dump seen as it works so well. Ive got nothing to copy so if you could help me out with a parts list and a pcb/circuit design that would be amazing. If you dont want me to share your information I can understand and will comply.
Thanks
Lance
March 25th, 2010 - 21:51
A parts list would not do you much good without the schematic. As mentioned above, I will not be releasing that information. I’m sure someone else can figure it out, and if they wish to release it, more power to them. You can decipher resistor values by reading their color codes.
By the way, the control pod can be bypassed. All you have to do is figure out the D-Sub’s pinout, which is an easy task if you have an original Z-2300 remote control pod and a multimeter with a continuity checker:
Just read the labels on the PCB and see which pin matches each wire. It’ll take 15 minutes max. The pin holes on the D-Sub connector are too small for most multimeter probes; a small piece of wire will help overcome that.
April 2nd, 2010 - 16:16
When they guy at logitech said he would replace your system for free, was your warranty out of date?
April 3rd, 2010 - 10:52
No, Logitech’s replacement policy applies only to equipment under warranty.
April 10th, 2010 - 23:50
Did they even ask you for the serial number? LOL
April 16th, 2010 - 13:53
Been reading for a few days now. This was very good and solid information. BTW, I like your site design as well. I enjoyed reading it and hopefully you will write more soon. Do you have a newsletter?
April 16th, 2010 - 16:39
Thanks. You should be able to subscribe using the field at the top of the page. WordPress should send out e-mails as I add posts.
April 23rd, 2010 - 23:27
What effect would bypassing the remote have. would the sub and amp just be at full volume all the?
I myself just picked up a z-2200 set at a second hand store for $15 bucks. figuring at the store that I could figure out something for the remote. but what you posted is about all the information I have found.
though the pictures may help a great deal considering that I don’t even have a remote in the first place.
also, where might I find a female HD-15? most other places I’ve tried looking seem to only carry standard monitor cables.
Thanks and great work
April 24th, 2010 - 14:01
The remote contains a potentiometer to attenuate speaker volume, and another potentiometer to further attenuate the magnitude of the already-attenuated signal (this one is for the subwoofer). So, running the Z-2300 with no remote will indeed mean that the speakers and sub are fixed at maximum volume–but you’ll still be able to control volume at the source. However, the subwoofer sounds like crap at full volume, in my opinion. Bypassing the remote is really only helpful for testing purposes.
The Z-2200 appears to have the same remote, so I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s electrically identical.
Try Digi-Key part # AE1380-ND. It’s classified as a VGA extension cable, but according to the datasheet it’s a legitimate Male to Female, High Density, 15-pin D-Sub cable wired 1:1 (pin 1 goes to pin 1, pin to goes to pin 2, etc.). Not all VGA extension cables are like this–most tie the center row of pins to ground.
May 10th, 2010 - 20:56
Thank you so much for releasing this information. I’ll try to build one next week. Will post pictures if I succeed.
May 17th, 2010 - 01:10
Hi, is it possible to get the Pin Out for an X-230 System?
Or Service Manual?
May 17th, 2010 - 05:16
Sorry, I don’t own an X-230.
May 17th, 2010 - 15:37
can I use remote from Z3 just for sub z2300??????
May 18th, 2010 - 02:03
Hey I would like to run 2 or 3 sets of logitech z-2300 together lots of people say it can not be doen. do you have any ideas.
May 18th, 2010 - 07:17
Of course it’s possible: Split the audio signal, then send the signal(s) to separate remote controls. You could build a nice splitter with volume/bass controls so that every set produces the same signal.
May 18th, 2010 - 10:27
can anyone answer my question so I dont cut wires for nothing?
May 20th, 2010 - 02:14
ya sorry question wasnt worded very well. would like to run 3 sets of one control. had the idea of wiring up the 15 pins making like a 3 way spliter but then was thinking that the resistance in the contol would be split 3 ways and the speakers would always be loud. a little worryd about shorting out the subs against eachouther?
May 21st, 2010 - 08:34
Thanks to the author for this topic. I was dying potentiometer on Volume, thanks to your article and the attached pictures to learn what to me =)
RK0971221Z0 log.
May 27th, 2010 - 22:27
how much would it costs to have you build one of these for me? If you would that is…
May 28th, 2010 - 14:45
I will not be building any more of these. The board and parts can be obtained from the provided links; putting it together should take less than 30 minutes.
June 3rd, 2010 - 11:12
What knobs are you using in that video? I’m looking around for nice ones, but there are too many options and I’m not sure which will fit.
The part description says shaft length of 15mm, but the actual mechanical schematic shows 7mm for the part where the knob would actually go. (http://www.alps.com/products/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RK097/RK0971221Z05.html)
Thanks for the PCB!
Alvaro
June 3rd, 2010 - 15:05
The potentiometers have 0.25″ shaft diameters (6.35mm). Knobs made for 7mm shafts will also work, of course.
I used Kilo International ML-50-1-6MM in the video. RadioShack sells much cheaper knobs…
June 12th, 2010 - 20:37
Awesome, Thanks! I’ve been holding on to a set of speakers for 4 years hoping I could fix the remote and your PCB worked great.
July 6th, 2010 - 20:03
I’ve been having problems with my OEM control pod so i decided to give this a shot. This replacement is 20 times better and soldering is always a fun project. BatchPCB sent me 2 boards!! So now I have to buy more parts to build a second control pod for my second set of z2300′s.
July 28th, 2010 - 23:38
Hi, I was wondering if I can use a single-ganged pot for the subwoofer attenuation since the sub signal is now mono.
July 29th, 2010 - 02:09
Also, is the LED 3v or 3.5v?
July 29th, 2010 - 17:19
Of course you can use a single-ganged pot; the second gang goes unused. I’m sure Logitech had an economical reason to do this–for me, it was easier to find a dual-gang pot.
LED voltage is fairly unimportant. Either should work.
August 10th, 2010 - 18:39
Thanks so much! I just finished building mine and I have stereo again for the first time in 5 months! Even if you have no prior experience with circuit boards and soldering, you’ll have a fairly easy time building this. The only component you could put in backwards is the LED (the longer side is positive). Everything else either doesn’t have polarity or can only attach to the board one way. I think the most important thing is picking up a decent soldering iron with a small enough tip. I picked up a Velleman VTSS5 from Frys for $20. If you have no experience soldering, I’m sure you can find some instructional video’s on the interwebs.
August 21st, 2010 - 06:50
Hi, I’m from Brazil and BatchPCB sent me 4 boards. But here I can’t find those parts to sold
and Mouser is charging me about S 40,00 on shipping. I don’t know what to do. I think $ 40 is too
expensive… Anybody have most of one remote control and could sell me? Thanks, sorry about my english.
August 21st, 2010 - 16:14
Sent you an e-mail, Marcio.
August 23rd, 2010 - 14:35
Built from this schematic, without headphone out couse i use one from my dac. Didn’t use pcb just connected components with wire. Works perfectly.
TY Jseaber
August 29th, 2010 - 12:57
@Ivan: Fantastic work, that looks great!