Back in October I purchased a standalone Z-2300 subwoofer on eBay, knowing I could build a DIY remote control pod based on my working Z-2300 set. I disassembled my original remote and deciphered the pinout in a matter of hours. A board was sent off to BatchPCB the next day; two weeks later, I posted this video on YouTube:
Since then, I’ve received dozens of messages from fellow Z-2300 owners, all asking for more information.
Here’s the deal: It would be unethical of me to release the schematic and/or circuit board for public usage, and quite possibly a breach of Logitech’s intellectual property. There are no copyright, trademark, or patent markings on the Z-2300 speaker set or the control pod’s circuit board. However, a Logitech Product Team member at the Logitech message board writes:
“The wiring diagram is not a public document.“
This is understandable—no company publicly releases schematics for their products, and definitely does not allow for others to profit from the company’s products/services. As an engineer, I wholeheartedly respect that.
Curiosity inspired me to take apart my Z-2300 subwoofer. The grill pried off without much difficulty, and I was even able to reassemble it with minimal cosmetic damage.
WARNING: Perform this disassembly with extreme caution! The enclosure contains a 120V AC transformer. With the Z-2300 turned on, unplug the power cord and wait for the power LED to fade. This will drain the capacitors and minimize the possibility of shock.
Various facts discovered:
Subwoofer uses an 8 screw mounting pattern
Subwoofer impedance measured at DC: Single voice coil, 6.5 ohms (8 ohms as per specs)
The amplifier had no problem driving an external 4 ohm subwoofer in a separate enclosure.
Subwoofer construction: Corrugated paper and foam surround.
As others have done, the enclosure could use some sound dampening material.
Replacing the subwoofer with a better made 8″ woofer (polypropylene cone and rubber surrounds) would probably improve sound quality. The amp can handle 4 ohms (based on my limited testing), which means output might even be stronger with such a woofer. However, the amplifier’s 150Hz crossover is fairly high and should ideally be reduced to below 100Hz. If I get around to replacing the sub, I’ll figure out the amplifier circuitry and post that modification.