Someone hijacked my credit card over the weekend–the seventh stolen card number I’ve encountered in under three years. CapitalOne detected the fraud instantly and notified me by text, email, and phone call. My card was cancelled and re-issued within minutes. It happens.
The credit card industry is broken and in dire need of change. Visa, Mastercard, AMEX, and Discover know that fraud is increasingly rampant and are forced to dedicate enormous resources to combat the problem. Before suggesting a solution, let’s examine how the industry currently operates.
The Real Cost of Chargebacks
A card holder files a chargeback to remove unauthorized charges to their account. Chargebacks are a mess for everyone involved.
Merchants have full liability for authorized, fraudulent transactions. It is solely a seller’s responsibility to identify and cancel fraudulent transactions. When a seller delivers goods or services to a hacker and the card holder issues a chargeback, the sale amount is deducted from the seller’s bank account in addition to chargeback fees. Merchants are thus incentivized to avoid fraud. But scam artists have a job to do!
Credit Card Networks, Gateways, and Processors experience minimal liability for fraudulent transactions. When a consumer reports fraud, the merchant foots the bill. About $50 in fees collected from the merchant covers overhead of the network’s constituents to issue a new card. New cards cost approx. $12.75/ea + shipping.
Issuing Banks have even smaller liability than CC networks. The bank can only lose from fraudulent activity in the unlikely event that a merchant’s bank account has insufficient funds to process a chargeback. Issuing banks are safe as long as a merchant stays in business and continues generating revenue.
Card Holders have zero liability, aside from the temporary frustration incurred by credit card theft.
You may be questioning my security practices. Please do. Each time my Visa has been compromised, the physical card has been in my possession. I always work behind firewalls. My devices are free of malware and viruses. As a merchant, I’m cognizant of PCI compliance requirements, and only offer credit cards to reliable suppliers (the card in question is held by a business account).
In most cases, merchants successfully cancel bad transactions. While “Dwayne” in Chicago, IL managed to obtain my credit card credentials, he will not receive the $700 in electronics and luxury shampoo he hoped for. Dwayne’s time was wasted, my time was wasted, and CapitalOne lost some time and money issuing a new card. If Dwayne bought my credit card number on the black market, he may be out another $5-10.
Most of the fraudulent orders my company observes present perfect AVS and CVV2 results. AVS presents a number of security flaws:
Merchants have no ability to verify the card holder’s name, street name, city, or state. Only zipcode and street number are verified.
Legitimate consumers often forget their billing address, or cause false declines due to inconsistent apartment and/or street numbering.
AVS is generally unavailable for cards issued outside of the United States.
Hackers easily find billing information once a name and card credentials are obtained.
Thanks to the power of Braintree, we’ve implemented proprietary security logic which keeps our chargeback rate 30% below the US average, and we’re often able to proactively inform those whose cards have been compromised. Details of our logic must be omitted here to maintain security.
By the Numbers
Consumers prefer to pay via credit card. Meanwhile, the financial industry profits, and merchants carry the burden:
Americans use credit and debit cards for over 80% of consumer spending.
Consumers with excellent credit can receive cashback incentives of up to 1.5% for paying via credit card; businesses receive up to 2% cashback.
We have supercomputers in our pockets, capable of voice recognition, facial recognition, fingerprint recognition, reporting user position via GPS coordinates, and of course providing instant access to data networks worldwide. Payment via smartphone is a logical evolution to personal finance and security. Starbucks’ payment app has excellent, growing adoption, and Chinese consumers now prefer Wechat Wallet and Mobile Alipay over credit card and cash, which have also gained popularity due to customer rewards.
Secure mobile payments will become standard within the next generation. As we move towards smarter payment methods, it will be fascinating to see how the financial industry rearranges. Hundreds of billions are at stake.
After two years of solid operation, our office Asus RT-N16 suddenly failed this week. Its blue LEDS would light up for only a few seconds before losing power. It’s a common problem caused by a disappointing electrolytic capacitor (Hermei 680uF 16V):
I design electronics for a living and have never heard of Hermei until now. Must be cheap–shame on Asus.
De-soldering the Hermei 680uF cap was a pain. We have a Hakko 808 desoldering gun in the office, which normally makes desoldering quick and easy. About 1 second per joint is normal.
Unfortunately, the RT-N16 PCB uses extra heavy copper planes (probably 2oz). The desoldering gun was no match. I had to use a reflow gun @ 415C to heat the planes. Slow, but successful:
After removing the bad cap, I heated the clogged solder pads with a soldering iron, and simultaneously used the desoldering gun on the opposite side to restore pads to usable condition. This was definitely one of the more difficult component swaps I’ve performed. If you only have access to a soldering iron, this approach will get by.
A huge Xicon 1000uF 25V cap was the closest match I could find in the shop:
Our RT-N16 has been back in service for several days now!
It took some digging to obtain the documentation below, so hopefully someone else will find the following useful.
My company uses Endicia Professional for fulfillment. Barcode scanners read customers’ packing slips to pull shipping info and customs information via ODBC connection to our database.
Endicia’s GUI for mapping database fields to its shipping interface works well in most cases. The default Customs Map performs a basic query of the shopping cart table, reading all records that match the field you specify:
Assuming your packing slip items are contained in a table named cart_info, the above GUI will generate a basic query:
SELECT * FROM cart_info WHERE txnid = $ReferenceID;
The Customs Data Map is stored in an XML file in your Windows app directory:
%appdata%/Endicia/Professional/Customs Data Maps/Data Map 001
Unlike the Source Data Map and Post-back Data Maps, there’s no obvious way to modify the SQL statement through the GUI, or even through the XML map.
The above GUI produces a working XML file like this (database parameters obviously omitted):
After some trial-and-error, I called Endicia support. A guy named Ron replied within 24 hours by email; we exchanged code and he produced the following:
Here is what I found.
My tests were with Access database. When I used this in my Customs data map:
… WHERE [ORDERID]=$ReferenceID AND [GROUP] = 0
It did filter the customs data results.
Instead of $OrderNumber we should be using $ReferenceID
Because the sample uses single quotes, I assume txnid is alphanumeric – if txnid is a numeric only, then we should remove the single quotes.
You are correct that the pointy brackets are an issue due to XML. Regarding the ASCII, can you tell me which ones you tried?
About != , not sure if these would be faster, but for the alphanumeric values maybe try LIKE or NOT LIKE
As Ron points out, Endicia stores the order lookup variable in $ReferenceID. In GUI terms, $ReferenceID = “Match the value in the Endicia Professional field:”
Now we can setup a query. Replace the line <SqlStatement /> with:
<SqlStatement>SELECT * FROM cart_info WHERE txnid = $ReferenceID;</SqlStatement>
Since the query is stored in an XML file, be sure to replace any less-than or greater-than signs with their ASCII equivalent. I needed to restrict our query results to ignore items with a non-NULL field named autoGroup, unless the itemnumber matched 117 or 118.
Here’s my final working code for the Customs Data Map XML file. This code is nearly useless to anyone outside of our office, but I always find code examples helpful:
<SqlStatement>SELECT * FROM cart_info WHERE txnid='$ReferenceID' AND (autoGroup < 1 OR autoGroup IS NULL or itemnumber='117' OR itemnumber='118')</SqlStatement>
Save the XML file then close and re-open Endicia, and you should be in business:
Thanks to Ron and Endicia for the development support!
I was a happy Newegg customer since their launch, way back in 2001.
In June 2012, I tried to order a camera accessory for my sister’s birthday. She lives over 1000 miles away in Florida. Newegg declined the $50 order, even though I’d selected my usual billing address and credit card (on file with them!). I tried another card. Also declined. I checked with my card provider, USBank, and they reported no problems.
At this point, I called Newegg’s credit department, expecting an explanation and resolution. I said, “My billing address and credit card information is perfect. USBank says there’s no issue. Are you declining the order because I’m shipping a gift to a family member?” The customer service agent couldn’t comment on their fraud detection policies. I gave up and ordered the gift through Amazon: same credit card, no problems.
Sitting in my living room a few days later, I tried to login to Newegg from my wife’s laptop. I simply needed to lookup an old order. I was staring at our projector, and typing on an unfamiliar keyboard didn’t help my typing accuracy. Two wrong password attempts made me second guess myself. Then a third wrong attempt: Account locked!
I called Newegg expecting to quickly regain access to my 10+ year old account. The service agent said she’d have their fraud department look into the ban, and based on their decision, it would be usable again in 1-2 days. Newegg never followed up or restored the account even after I proposed, “So, you’re telling me to shop at Amazon?”
Fast forward to last night: I’d still been using our [separate] company account with Newegg to buy toner and office computer equipment, and decided it’s time to replace my five year old dinosaur of a PC…
Two minutes after placing a $1287.50 order, Newegg sends an email to the company, “Payment Authorization Failed”:
We regret to inform you that your Newegg.com order (Sales Order Number: ##########) cannot be processed at this time. Unfortunately, the payment authorization on your VISA has failed. This failed authorization may have resulted from an invalid card number, incorrect expiration date, insufficient funds or exceeding a daily limit.
Again?! This is the same USBank Visa we’ve used to place Newegg orders all year! The company has a high spending limit on this particular card and we regularly charge large material and equipment purchases to the same card. All billing, shipping, and card information I’d provided was 100% correct, accurate, and legitimate.
So I call USBank again. The rep says, “Oh, Newegg? They’re one of the biggest sources of fraud we deal with. We automatically decline large orders.” He went on to mention that he and his wife recently spotted a fraudulent $3500 charge from Newegg on their own USBank Visa–and they don’t even have a Newegg account.
He kindly transfers me to 2nd level support. After re-answering all security questions and explaining that we really do want to charge $1287 to our Visa, Mr. Level-Two says, “Okay, can you try to re-submit the order at Newegg? It should go through this time.” Newegg instantly declined the card a second time.
He says, “Hm, I’m going to transfer you to the next level support. They’ll be able to help.”
At level three, I answer security questions for the third time, then ask Darleen if she really has the magical powers necessary to authorize my legitmate company purchase. She says she does. I re-enter my card at Newegg and the order finally goes through.
Online Credit Card Processing is Broken
I completely understand the importance of preventing fraudulent activity, and avoiding chargebacks. Fraud scares consumers, and businesses ultimately lose money dealing with chargebacks.
My company has processed a few thousand credit card orders in the past quarter, with 0 chargebacks. We cater to a niche market, so fraud isn’t common through our online store. Yet, we observe 5+ declined credit cards each day. The majority of these customers have made a small typo, or can’t remember if they’ve updated their billing address after moving to a new home/apartment. In all but a few rare cases, our customers’ declined cards are false positives!
Trading Buying Freedom for Security
Searches for declined credit cards turn up similar stores like my own:
To stop fraud, we need to stop allowing purchases to be made solely with the information that appears on the card because this is not secret information; it is basic information about an account. This is not something that merchants can fix alone. Merchants already have to foot the bill for chargebacks, and PCI standards are really just an attempt to make merchants responsible for maintaining the security of what is, at its core, a payment system that broke in the 1990s. CVN didn’t work–10 years later, we still have to explain to consumers where the number is because the card associations have not spent enough effort educating the public and, quite frankly, they don’t care. To use a credit card, anywhere, you should have to swipe it (PCI is still relevant in this scenario). Period.
From a merchant’s perspective, I couldn’t agree more. Credit card security is a disaster. Declined purchases are even more frustrating to legitimate buyers.
Fixing Online Purchasing Security
PayPal intended to fix online security. But have they succeeded after 14 years in operation? Only somewhat. Just 40% of our customers choose to pay via PayPal. That’s a strong percentage, but credit cards remain dominant and many customers consider their plastic cards safer. And let’s face it: PayPal is an online extension of the existing, broken banking and credit card infrastructure.
It’s clear that credit card security must be fixed at the banking level. Getting banks to dump resources into fixing credit cards–that’s a huge challenge.
Credit Card Authorization via SMS
Credit cards are the 21st century cash (although, with hidden swipe fees…a rant for another time). For now, I propose a simple solution to restore security and convenience: Allow credit card holders to opt-in to fraud alerts via text messaging. If a bank determines a charge to be fraudulent, send a text message to the cardholder, something like this:
“Do you authorize purchase of $## from Store-Name-Here? Respond ‘Y’ to authorize charge to your credit card, ending digits ####.”
If someone has hijacked my credit card, billing address, and cell phone, my identity has already been stolen. Might as well let fraud occur at that point.
It’s not a perfect fix. Not everyone has a text messaging plan, hence the opt-in. And adding a user prompt via SMS into the credit card authorization routine will complicate processing for the bank, and may still require a second processing attempt for successful authortization. It’s a start.
Ultimately, it’s time to replace credit cards with a new form of payment.
Earlier this summer my company spent a fair chunk of change on rapid prototypes printed by professional fused deposition modelling (FDM) printers. Thinking this was a huge waste of cash, Google led me to the RepRap project: Personal 3D printing for as little as $350. Of course, I had to build one.
The RepRap Wiki suggested a Prusa Mendel. Its bill of materials and instructions seemed well prepared, and the list of suppliers even seemed strong (note the keyword here–“seemed”). As an open source project, I should’ve known what I was getting into!
RepRap is a vibrant, rapidly growing opensource community for two reasons. First, people are inherently fascinated by a machine that makes real, physical objects. Second, home 3D printing is still in its infancy. Assembly of a 3D printer demands enormous exchange of ideas. One must gather a basic knowledge of electronics, programming, and machining. You’ll inevitably have questions, and once you step into the forums or IRC, it’s unlikely to be your last visit.
Consequently, RepRap is the child of thousands of ‘makers’, engineers, and programmers around the world. PhD’s and kids alike contribute to its development. The movement has resulted in a number of start-ups, including the recent $10MM VC-funded Makerbot in New York, which has subsequently brought significant media coverage to opensource 3D printing (CNN, Colbert Report, NPR, the New York Times, just to name a few). I’m impressed with the brand name they’ve established, but ultimately they’re selling an expensive kit. At 1/3 the price, and with potentially better performance, a Prusa is the way to go.
I thought I’d take the easy route and grab a Prusa kit off eBay. elderfarrer2hy7 had the best price at the time ($160) on a kit which included all printed parts, nuts, bolts, bearings, belts, and a laser cut acrylic bed. All I needed was a set of rods, electronics, motors and a weakly documented, but crucial piece referred to as a “hotend”. And of course some plastic filament. Or so I thought.
elderfarrer2hy7’s kit showed up within days. I then ordered:
For those new to RepRap, the hot-end essentially acts like a hot-glue gun. The extruder feeds ABS or PLA filament into the hot-end, which is held at 180-240C depending on your chosen filament. At the further end is a nozzle with a standard diameter of 0.35mm (more or less depending on what’s available). Note that 1.75mm filament does not yield improved resolution over 3mm filament. Layer thickness and precision is dictated by nozzle diameter. A good hot-end with a 3mm extruder will print as quickly and accurately as a 1.75mm extruder. Anyway, three types of hot-ends are currently in use: ceramic core, power resistor, and cartridge heaters.
Ceramic cores use a piece of thin nichrome wire, wrapped tightly around the hot-end and covered in a layer of hardened ceramic paste. The nichrome wire heats up like coils in a toaster. Assembly is time consuming and messy, but it’s reliable.
Power resistor hot-ends are simpler. Stick a 5 to 6 ohm power resistor into the hot-end and you’re done. However, operating a resistor at 240C longterm means it’s operating way out of spec. As long as the resistor isn’t physically disturbed, it should hold up for months or maybe years. But if disturbed, the abused resistor will shatter. In my opinion, a mostly reliable $1 power resistors far outweighs the messy assembly of a nichrome wire kit.
Cartridge heaters are used by Makerbot. This is the same type of heating element found in soldering irons and similar devices. Cartridges are more robust than power resistors, but still not bulletproof. Makergear and a few others in the DIY community have experimented with cartridges. Supposedly they haven’t been widely adopted due to poor availability for our 12V application. It’s easier to use a cheap power resistor.
I wanted to buy a power resistor type hot-end from Mendel-parts.com, but every model was sold out. In fact, every power resistor hotend I could find anywhere was out of stock.
Disappointed, I bought a Makergear 0.35mm Hot-End Pack (a nichrome wire kit). Rick at Makergear is a great guy. Very helpful, friendly service, and his hot-end kits are enormously popular in the community. Unfortunately, Rick’s site is a disaster! Get it together, man!
Alas, I cannot recommend the Makergear hot-end pack. First of all, it’s $75. Second, it took hours to assemble and harden. Third, it flat out failed, as I’ll explain below. Get a J-Head MKIII from “Reifsnyderb”. It’s under $65, arrives 95% assembled, and just works.
Also worth consideration is the Budaschnozzle from LulzBots for $75. I haven’t personally tried one, but it looks awesome and supposedly works equally well. Arcol.hu has a similar hotend for $134–ouch.
I narrowed down the choice of electronics to RAMPS or Gen6. RAMPS supports heatbed control and 1/16 microstepping, but the board looks like a disaster in terms of layout and motor/sensor wiring, and further requires the purchase of separate Pololu stepper drivers and an Arduino Mega. RAMPS is a favorite in the community, but I design PCBs for a living and looking at it made my stomach turn.
Gen6 is well designed, but was sold out. Heatbeds don’t necessarily need software control, and I didn’t think I needed one at the time (newbie mistake). I also convinced myself that since the stepper motors only had 200 steps per rotation, subdividing those steps with 1/8 microstepping couldn’t possibly be much worse than 1/16. [Verdict: True. 0.9° motors with 1/8 microstepping are more accurate than 1.8° motors with 1/16 microstepping.]
So what’d I do? Like any self respecting EE, I ran the numbers and ordered 250 Gen6 PCBs. My company sent a batch to our favorite assembly shop, and I had electronics in hand within three weeks. Super easy, and cheap (well, per board…). PCBs and assembled Gen6’s are still available.
For power, I went with a 12V, 15A power supply from “jingsam-online” on eBay. This is barely adequate with a heatbed connected–the supply runs at almost 70C. In retrospect, $10 more for the 30A version would have been a better investment.
Assembly – Weekend #1
Smooth and threaded rods arrived from McMaster in a 6ft tube. The Prusa assembly guide stated required rod lengths, but did not suggest tools for cutting the 2 meter steel rods. I’m still not sure of a preferred cutting method, but my brother-in-law brought over a dremel and we picked up some fresh rotary discs from Lowes. We spent two long evenings cutting rods. Unless you have a better idea, buy pre-cut rods.
Assembly – Weekend #2
The majority of the frame went together the next weekend. However, we quickly hit another hurdle: PLA bushings! All of our parts were printed in ABS, including the “PLA bushings”. These pieces are supposed to enable the X, Y, and Z axis to glide freely along the smooth rods. We weren’t so lucky. Our PLA (ABS?) bushings snapped onto the smooth rods but would not budge. We filed them down and tried other suggestions from the RepRap forums to no avail.
I remembered a line from the Prusa Wiki which mentioned linear bearings. Aha. That’s what they were talking about. PLA bushings work for some people, and have the clear advantage of cheapness. But reliability is spotty. Serious CNC machines use linear bearings for axis movement. So, I ordered a set of LM8UU bearings from a Chinese eBay seller. [VXB sells LME8UU bearings in the USA at twice the price.]
The LM8UU mod also meant I needed a new X-carriage, Y-bed LM8UU mounts, and X-ends. These were easily found on Thingiverse.com:
I e-mailed elderfarrer2hy7 and he quickly hooked me up. Edit: Looks like he now sells kits made for linear bearings!
After I built my printer, Prusa himself released an official LM8UU X-end set. I’ve printed them but still prefer the design by ahmetcemturan.
Assembly – Weekends #3 and #4
While waiting for the Chinese LM8UU’s, we assembled the Makergear Hotend pack and Wade’s extruder. After much head scratching at Rick’s documentation, we had an assembled heatcore and Groovemount.
Cutting the hobbed bolt was a disaster. Again, we resorted to the dremel:
We ended up with two failed attempts and one marginally successful “hobbed” bolt from this adventure.
For about an hour, we had no faith in the Wade’s Extruder because the filament passed through only against the hobbed bolt (no opposing force, so it kept slipping). I finally realized that we hadn’t attached the Idler block and 608 bearing…right…
The LM8UU’s showed up after two weeks, followed closely by the finished Gen6 boards. Final assembly only took a couple days, but it was quickly apparent we were nowhere near finished.
We started with the simplest problems:
X axis, Z axis, and the extruder ran backwards. Solution: Edited FiveD firmware and calibrated X, Y, and Z steps_per_mm.
Y axis would only travel forward. Solution: My soldering had killed the Y mechanical endstop. Replaced with a microswitch from RadioShack.
MakerGear Trouble – After knocking out the simple stuff, we tried to extrude plastic. And that’s when the real problems began. We spent about six hours with the Makergear hotend, yet only managed to produce a small pile of extruded ABS. This took days to troubleshoot. Here’s what I learned:
We first tried to extrude ABS at 245C. When this failed (actually due to bad hobbing), we switched to PLA at 240C. Dumb move. The PLA expanded, jammed, and slowly burned up in the Makergear hotend. We had to drill it out. So, never set temps too high. PLA should be used at 180-220C. ABS: 220-250C.
We had enormous difficulty with the springs elderfarrer2hy7 provided. They lacked sufficient force, so the hobbed bolt would spin without pushing plastic and thus slowly strip the filament. The filament could be manually extruded by hand, if not already jammed. In short, Wade’s Extruder needs springs with a strong load force (25-35N). Problem was solved by switching to McMaster 9434K164 springs.
Even after solving each of these problems, the Makergear hotend continued to jam with ABS at 225-230C. Upon closer inspection, I found that the PTFE lining inside the Groovemount was off-center. This, along with the previously burnt PLA were likely causes of continued trouble. Many people have great success with the Makergear hotend kit, so I can’t fault it. These were user errors.
A Working Hotend – Weekend #7
Ultimately, I wasn’t happy with the Makergear hotend, and definitely didn’t want to blow more cash on a replacement. I found a guy in the RepRap forums named reifsnyderb, who’d previously sold a nice looking J Head Nozzle (a power resistor hotend). We exchanged a few e-mails and he agreed to machine a custom J Head MKII for my Wade’s Extruder.
The J Head MKII arrived in just two days! I wired up the resistor and thermistor, wrapped it all in Kapton tape, and fired up Repsnapper. Even without calibrating the extruder, it managed a test print.
Success! But still a long way from reliable printing…
Filament and Software Troubles – Weekends #8 and #9
Although the printer was technically working, there were still a few issues to work out.
First, filament would randomly strip after anywhere from five minutes to three hours of printing. I’d have to pull the hobbed bolt out, clear the plastic shavings, and re-assemble. This issue took days to troubleshoot, but the solution was easy–tighten the extruder springs. Since then, no more stripped filament.
Next, ABS would barely stick to the acrylic bed. About halfway through the test cube print in the above video, the print ripped off the platform. Less than 1 in 5 print attempts would stick at all.
In other words, a heatbed is an absolute must. Once more, Prusa’s MK1 PCB heatbed was sold out in North America; I resorted to ordering 25 from my PCB house.
Heatbed PCBs arrived in a week. I temporarily mounted one atop the acrylic bed using 1/4″ Nylon standoffs, following Prusa’s “final” mounting solution–glass covered with Kapton tape and attached with bulldog clips.
For wire, I used 14AWG THHN, rated for 105C. The outer PCB traces connecting to the power supply leads are thicker, so this region of the board is cooler and it’s safe to use 105C wire here. Glass came from Lowes for about $2. I had to trim the corners (tip: use scissors underwater).
Because Gen6 has no heated bed support, the heatbed is wired directly to my 12V, 15A power supply. The glass surface reaches 100C in about five minutes, and 110C after 15-30 minutes, as measured by thermal probe.
Up to this point, I’d used Repsnapper as a host, as per severely out of date documentation from Mendel-Parts.com. It was time to move to SFACT and Printrun/Pronterface. Printrun is a solid graphical interface, which relies upon SFACT/Skeinforge for gcode generation. It’s daunting at first, but prints beautifully. Just one downside: Skeinforge is CPU hungry. Kliment (author) says he’s working on optimization.
I was also using FiveD firmware downloaded from Mendel-Parts.com. FiveD lacks acceleration and I was seeing occasional pauses during Z-axis movement. I flashed to Kliment’s latest Sprinterfirmware and increased the baud rate to 38400. No more hiccups. Also, acceleration is a glorious thing.
While editing Sprinter’s configuration.h file, I took the time to document proper equations for the Prusa:
Formula for X steps per mm = Y steps per mm = (Steps)/(Microstepping *BeltPitch*PulleyTeeth)
Formula for Z steps per mm = (Steps)/(Microstepping*Zd)
Formula for E steps per mm = (Steps*ERatio)/(pi*Microstepping*BoltDiamter)
Steps = Number of motor steps per one revolution (200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree motor, etc.)
Microstepping = Microstepping ratio of controller (1/8 for Gen6, 1/16 for Pololu, etc.)
BeltPitch = Distance in millimeters between teeth of belt (5.00mm for T5, 5.08mm for XL, etc.)
PulleyTeeth = Number of teeth on the motor pulley gear (default is 8 teeth for T5 gears; XL gears may use 10)
Zd = Distance in millimeters between threads of Z rods (1.25mm for M8)
ERatio = Gear ratio for extruder gears (Wade’s Extruder: 39/11, Accessible Wade’s by Greg Frost: 43/10, Adrian’s Extruder: 59/11, etc.)
BoltDiameter = Diameter of hobbed bolt in millimeters, measured at hobbed section
These formulas have since been added to the Prusa Wiki.
Minor Tweaks – Weekend #10
Heat warps acrylic, so within days of installing the heatbed, I had to replace the acrylic printbed with 1/4″ MDF bed ($6 from Lowes and half an hour with a jigsaw). Acrylic was junk to begin with. It flexes too much, even without heat, which added great difficulty to bed alignment. Use MDF.
Additional calibration…need to eliminate corner blobs
I should’ve started blogging 10 weeks ago.
If you build a Prusa, use LM8UU linear bearings, a heatbed, a good hotend (J Head MKIII-B!), and strong bed and extruder springs. Also grab the latest popular firmware and software. And buy a digital caliper.
E-tailers and consumers know that USPS tracking is a joke. For several years, Delivery Confirmation (DC) was just what its name implies—a method of checking that a package had been delivered. Although USPS.com displays a “Track and Confirm” search field on their website, DC numbers have historically returned two points of information (acceptance and delivery), coupled with one very misleading statement:
Information, if available, is updated every evening. Please check again later.
Your item was accepted at 1:06 PM on May 23, 2008 in St. Louis, MO 63103.
Information was generally not updated until the package had been delivered. More tracking points have begun to show up in the past 5 years, but we were still told to maybe expect more information each evening. Lies.
One of the first topics our tax agent covered a few years back was unemployment tax. Larry said, “Single-employee S-corporations must pay unemployment insurance, but you can never claim unemployment from your own dissolved company. I don’t believe this is fair, but there’s nothing we can do about it.” So we pay unemployment taxes.
As usual, NPR delivered several gloomy economic reports this week as the U.S. Unemployment Rate rose again to 9.8%. I listened to interviewees on both sides of the fence share their stories. Some Americans are earnestly seeking employment, yet remain unemployed. Others admit that 6+ months of unemployment checks are simply an incentive for them to sit at home until the free money stops coming.
Today my company received a letter from the State of Illinois’ Department of Employment Security. Inside was our Annual Contribution Rate Determination, aka, a declaration of how much Unemployment Tax/Insurance we must pay:
If you’re reading this, you probably already understand why one might wish to view a regular, non-mobile website on the iPhone. For example, eBay now forcefully redirects iPhone traffic to a limited functionality mobile site (http://mobileweb.ebay.com). Among other things, relisting auctions from the mobileweb.ebay site is impossible. Blasphemy!
Servers perform these frustrating redirects by reading the browser’s “user-agent” ID. So, if we spoof the iPhone browser’s user-agent ID, web servers will believe the iPhone is a regular desktop browser. But, the iPhone’s Safari browser doesn’t support user-agent spoofing. This leaves us with two choices:
In an earlier decade, I accumulated an inane number of car audio subs and amplifiers. I’ve finally come to my senses (thank you, tinnitus :-/). But, I have yet to find a more pleasing sound than that which comes from an oldschool pair of Infinity Perfect 10.1‘s in a custom sealed box, powered by a JBL BP600.1. So, the pair now resides in my office, rather than my hatchback. This initially posed one problem:
Despite over a decade of networking experience, I spent two hours on the phone this past weekend with my sister as she attempted to setup a wireless router with her Verizon DSL. Needless to say, it didn’t go as expected. Here’s what we learned…
First, a bit of background info. There are three types of authentication that Verizon can use:
A) DHCP only — Verizon reads your current MAC address and assigns an IP address
B) PPPoE only — A username/password is required, but MAC address is ignored
C) Both PPPoe and DHCP